Gas distribution system VAZ-2114
It will not be a secret to anyone that over time, any part will wear out and require replacement; for some, this period is measured in hundreds, for others, tens of thousands of kilometers.
Timing mechanism diagram
As for the gas distribution mechanism system, and specifically its belt, replacement should be done at the end of its service life, or if there is visible damage to it.
However, it should be noted that when replacing an old belt with a new one, a problem may occur such as the belt sliding out of its place, which in turn can lead to eating (wear - approx.) of the edge of the belt, which in the future will only contribute to its wear, break and another replacement.
We hasten to please you
The VAZ-2114 car was equipped only with an 8-valve engine, with a volume of 1.5 and 1.6 liters, which may indicate that when the timing belt breaks, the pistons and valves do not meet and the latter do not bend , which is certainly favorable affects not only subsequent repairs, but also the car owner’s wallet.
Eats timing belt VAZ 2110 8 valves
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Many owners of front-wheel drive VAZs are concerned about the problem of why the timing belt is eating ? Most often this question is asked by owners of the following VAZ models - 2108, 2109, 2110, 2112, 2114, Kalina, Priora, Grant (and this problem occurs on engines with both 8 and 16 valves). There is only one general answer to the question raised: the belt is skewed. And this, in turn, can happen for a number of reasons - the pump is installed unevenly, the roller is of poor quality, a washer of the wrong size is installed between the roller and the block (or it is missing altogether) and some others. Each of the listed problems is solved in its own way. In most cases, work to eliminate the causes can be carried out independently, provided you have the appropriate experience and tools. This will save money, and the repair work itself does not take much time and effort.
Where does the belt slip and why?
Note! The belt can slip either towards the engine or in the opposite direction from it.
This happens regardless of how exactly it was installed in the middle of the gear, since the reason for this is not only the belt itself, but also the elements and mechanisms accompanying its operation. In order to solve this problem, you need to use the methods described below.
Timing belt
In modern times, in the automotive spare parts market, facts of counterfeits and low-quality products are becoming more and more common.
The top is the original timing belt and the bottom is a fake.
Specifically touching on the issue with the timing belt, we can talk about its uneven structure, increased elasticity (the ability to stretch excessively - approx.), as well as the presence of significant differences between the two edges (distortion - approx.).
The degree of straightness of the newly installed belt can only be determined on the mounted mechanism.
And, if even minor deviations are observed after starting the engine, then the reason is in the belt.
Belt is on and tight
water pump
The timing belt can slip due to play in the pump (pump - approx.). It is very easy to determine its presence; you just need to grab the working surface of the gear with your hand, and if there is even the slightest play, the unit must be changed. In this case, read the material: “choosing a reliable pump for the VAZ-2114”
Leaks on the cylinder block from the timing side indicate that the pump has failed
Tension roller
The next element that needs to be diagnosed when the timing belt is slipping is the tension roller.
Although it may seem like a simple part, deviation from its performance specifications can significantly affect the overall correct operation of the part. In simple terms, a curved roller will not be able to provide the belt with linear movement , wearing out and moving it to the side.
The diagram is clear and understandable.
Another reason for discussions on popular forums about the belt moving to the side is the installation of rollers of different types, because the analogue has a different, slightly modified design.
The difference between the rollers
The difference between these two spare parts is that the old side has a different shape, made of metal, while the new one is made of plastic.
Therefore, as the theory shows, a spare part made of plastic causes much less friction than its metal counterpart.
There are two types of rollers.
Troubleshooting methods
Now we list methods for eliminating these causes. Let's go in the same order.
- Belt tension . First you need to check the tension level and compare it with the one recommended by the car manufacturer (usually indicated in the technical documentation for the car, also can be found on the Internet). If this value is higher than the recommended value, then the tension must be loosened. This is done using a torque wrench. If you don’t have one, then it’s better to contact a car service. As a last resort, you can perform this procedure “by eye,” but use the indicated devices as soon as possible. You can also use a regular dynamometer and a regular wrench for this.
- Poor quality belt . If the two edges of the belt have different stiffness, then a situation will arise where the timing roller eats the belt from the softer side. You can check this by replacing its right and left sides. If after replacement the second side does not wear out, then the belt is to blame. There is only one way out, and it consists in purchasing and installing a new, higher quality part.
- Wear of pump bearings . To diagnose this problem, it is necessary to dismantle the belt and check for play on the toothed pulley. If there is play, it means the part needs to be replaced. Bearings cannot be repaired.
- The pump is installed crookedly . This situation is possible if, during the previous replacement, the adjacent surface was poorly cleaned, and small particles of the old gasket and/or pieces of dirt remained on it, but if this happens, then most likely you will understand this by the leak that appears after filling the antifreeze and starting the engine. When installing a new pump (or even an old one, if it is in good condition), be sure to thoroughly clean both surfaces (including the bolt holes), both on the pump itself and on the motor housing, and install a new gasket. In some cases, instead of a gasket, sealant is placed under the pump.
- Problems with the video . The video needs to be reviewed. It should have minimal play and a flat working surface. To check, you can use a ruler or other similar object of the required width. It also makes sense to check the presence of grease in the bearing. If its quantity is small, it should be added. If the roller is of poor quality, it must be replaced. It is almost impossible to repair the bearing, much less the roller surface.
- Damage to stud threads . To correct this situation, there are two options. The simplest is to use a saw with the appropriate diameter for turning internal threads and/or a die for turning similar threads on a stud. Another option is more labor-intensive and involves completely dismantling the block in order to restore the specified thread. This method is used if for some reason it is impossible to use the sword.
Installing washers under the roller
Other ways to adjust the roller
If you look at the standard and proper operation of the timing belt, then the tension roller should be located exactly in the middle of the pump and camshaft gears. However, some VAZ-2114 owners, in order to avoid the belt slipping, pull the roller to the side, closer to the camshaft, thus the belt, receiving the greatest bend in its upper part, is more firmly fixed in its place.
All tension roller components for VAZ-2114.
Not a tricky way to adjust the belt
There is another simple way that helps VAZ-2114 owners avoid the belt slipping by adjusting the position of the tension roller.
In order to fix it in this position, it is necessary to pre-make a blank in the form of a half washer made of aluminum (an aluminum can works well - approx.), which must be fixed between the spacer ring and the cylinder block.
Such a need can arise only if the spacer ring has differences in its thickness. You can take its measurements yourself, using only a caliper.
Camshaft and crankshaft
New camshaft gear
Also, judging by the numerous reviews of “our tubers”, it is possible to eliminate the occurrence of timing belt slippage after replacing the camshaft and crankshaft gears.
However, such a procedure can bring results if the car’s mileage on old spare parts is at least 100 thousand kilometers. Otherwise, such a replacement may not bring the desired result.
Rust on the crankshaft gear
Crankshaft gear rusted
This situation arises as a result of the lack of dirt protection. The gear rusts and begins to work incorrectly.
Replacing the timing belt on a VAZ 2113-VAZ 2115
Removal
1) First, remove the plastic cover that covers the belt from dirt, various types of water and lubricants. The cover is removed as follows: take a wrench or socket wrench and unscrew the three bolts securing the cover (in the bottom photo the bolts are already unscrewed). Two bolts are present on the side and hold the cover in place, and one is located in the central part. By unscrewing them, you can remove the cover from the car engine.
2) Now turn off the power to the car by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery. Then remove the alternator belt - read the article for details: “Replacing the alternator belt on a VAZ.” Set the piston of the fourth and first cylinders to TDC (top dead center). Simply put, place both pistons completely straight and without angles up. The publication will be useful to you: “Installing the piston of the fourth cylinder at TDC on a car.”
3) Then take a “13” wrench in your hands and use it to slightly loosen the nut securing the tension roller. Loosen until the roller begins to rotate. Then turn the roller by hand so that the belt loosens. Grasp the belt and carefully remove it from the rollers and pulleys. You need to start from the top, with the camshaft pulley. It will not be possible to remove all the pulleys, so only release the belt at the top.
4) Next, remove the front right wheel (removal instructions are available here: “Correct replacement of wheels on modern cars”). Now take a socket wrench or any other wrench that can unscrew the bolt securing the generator drive pulley (the pulley is indicated by the red arrow).
Note! The bolt is unscrewed with the help of a second person (assistant) and a mounting spatula (or a thick screwdriver with a straight blade). From the left side (in the direction of travel of the car) of the clutch housing, remove the plug marked in red. Then a spatula or screwdriver is inserted between the teeth of the flywheel (the teeth are indicated in blue) - the flywheel is kept from turning. You will have to use force, the main thing is not to overdo it. After unscrewing the bolt, remove the pulley and set it aside!
After any work
After working on the timing belt, many car enthusiasts and car service technicians advise observing the condition it is in, periodically opening the hood and diagnosing its condition. But at the same time you need to remove the plastic protection!
Because in this way it is possible to notice in a timely manner emerging defects, belt slipping and other problems, which will certainly have a beneficial effect on the condition of the gas distribution system as a whole.
Using shims when the belt slips
You can make washers yourself, for example, from the body of aluminum beer cans, coffee tins, or use ready-made ones from the factory. The main thing is that the washers are the same size as the spacer ring installed between the block and the tension roller eccentric. There are two options. The first uses factory washers. The thickness and quantity are selected experimentally. The use of this method is ambiguous, since the washers are flat and, accordingly, the contact plane of the roller will remain parallel to the same. However, this method has helped some car enthusiasts.
1 - if the belt is sliding towards the engine, 2 - if the belt is sliding away from the engine
Another method is to make your own crescent-shaped washers. The number and width of washers are also selected experimentally. The use of such washers is more expedient, since with their help it is possible to change the angle of inclination of the pin and roller so that it forms a normal to the plane of the cylinder block body.
The washer must be installed according to the diagram shown in the figure. In particular, if the timing belt is slipping towards the engine, then the washer/washers should be installed closer to the center of the block. If the belt moves from the engine, then vice versa, closer to the edge of the block. When installing washers, it is recommended to use a heat-resistant sealant that will keep them from sliding to the side with or without load.
Finally, I would like to note that in rare cases, the cause of the belt shifting to one side or the other and its eating can be caused by not one, but several of the reasons described above. As a rule, the method of using shims is universal and can save the situation in even the most “neglected” cases. However, it makes sense to inspect the belt, roller and pump in order to identify shortcomings in their operation, and, if necessary, replace the listed components. This will save you from having other problems with these parts in the future.
conclusions
As you have seen for yourself, the reason for the timing belt slipping on a VAZ-2114 can only be solved by replacement, so when choosing a similar spare part in a store, it is best to pay attention to a trusted manufacturer who has proven itself only from the best side.
All car parts can become old and wear out over time. Each car owner, sooner or later, is faced with a situation when a spare part needs to be replaced. The problem of the rubber ring slipping is very common, especially among VAZ owners. Let's find out what the reasons for this are.
