A lot of time has passed since AvtoVAZ put on sale a car called Lada Kalina. Advertising and the hope of domestic car enthusiasts for a bright future did their job - every third Russian chose Kalina as a new car. However, the joy of owning a domestic car ends sooner or later.
After just a few months of operation, the Kalina car showed its rather capricious character. And it just so happened that the owners of the Lada Kalina began to disappear more and more often in the garage, once again doing some kind of repair, rather than driving the car. AvtoVAZ engineers are well aware of the shortcomings and childhood diseases, and are doing their best to get rid of them in the next generation in order to increase reliability. However, the result of the improvements is insignificant. The car still cannot please with its endurance and resistance to wear. It’s especially unpleasant when the Kalina doesn’t start at the right moment. And the car owner is forced to start troubleshooting. Let's try to understand the reasons for the car's reluctance to start.
Immobilizer
If the car refuses to start, then this is one of the possible reasons. You can notice problems in the operation of this system yourself. If the corresponding icon blinks on the dashboard and a characteristic beeping sound is heard, then you should read the operating instructions. If the Lada Kalina does not start, the immobilizer is a common problem. The problem is not easy to fix. In the instructions for the car, the manufacturer indicates the decoding of sounds and blinking lights - the car owner needs to count the time between flashes, the number of buzzer signals, and then read what the manufacturer writes about this.
In winter, it often happens that the car starts normally after about the sixth time. In most cases, this problem can be solved by retraining the key - after this procedure, problems with starting should not appear.
How and why the immobilizer fails
Let's dwell on this topic in a little more detail. The thing is that the ECU controller on this model is located under the heater radiator. In second-generation models, the controller was moved.
So, if the Kalina does not start, you need to remove the side wall from the left side in the passenger seat and visually check the ECU. The block must be dry. If it is wet, then it is filled with coolant - in this case, it will not be possible to restore the ECU, only replacement will help.
First of all, when exposed to liquid, the output switch burns out. The chip can be re-soldered, but after such repairs the problems will go away for literally two months, and then they will appear again. The heater radiator will need to be replaced. If this problem exists, then experts recommend installing a new controller between the engine compartment partition and the stove.
Now about the immobilizer - in Kalina cars the manufacturer installs APS-6 immobilizers. In very rare cases, these devices fail on their own. Often, the problem is hidden in the wiring or control panel. The key fob body is held together with one self-tapping screw - the screw can be overtightened or undertightened. A crack appears on the remote device chip between the transponder contacts. In this case, if the Kalina does not start, only a spare or training key, or replacing the remote control will help.
Sequence of emergency actions when a key is jammed
Emergency measures should be understood as a sequence of actions if the key gets jammed while the car is away from a parking or repair site (for example, during a country trip).
What is especially bad about this situation: without an open ignition switch, the wheels are blocked, the car cannot be towed, it can only be towed, and this takes time and money.
Video - if the ignition switch is broken, how to start the car and drive home:
What you can try:
1. Repeat attempts to turn the lock. This is the most rational solution. In this case, the turning process can be accompanied by movements of the key back and forth, up and down. It’s a good idea to inject silicone grease, a Vedashka, an anti-freeze agent, or even water in the warm season, if there is no other liquid, into the place where the key is installed. You can knock on the lock body with something metal.
2. If attempts do not lead to anything, check the geometry of the key; it may be damaged (bent in a purse or pocket). If you suspect a change in geometry, bend the key a little, but not too much, so as not to break it. If the key is dirty, remove the dirt using a damp cloth.
If previous actions did not bring results, you can move on to more drastic ones. In the case where you have time and money, it is better not to perform these actions, but to wait for a tow truck.
In order to start the car, in most car models it is enough to reach the contact group of the ignition switch. To do this, you need to remove the plastic steering column protection structure. This requires a Phillips screwdriver or star bits.
The contact group is located on the back of the ignition switch. It is usually secured with latches or secured with screws. You can find on the Internet how to dismantle it. If the contact group is removed, in its end you can find a slot into which the pin from the ignition switch is inserted. By inserting a flat-head screwdriver into it, you can start the car.
In this case, the key must be in the ignition switch, since information from the immobilizer chip located in the key is read from it.
You can start the car without removing the contact group, using the hijacker's method. To do this, you need to strip the wires leading to the contact group (you can simply remove the connector, if there is one). Next, you will need the professional instincts of a hijacker. The red thick wire must be connected to the orange, yellow or red thinner wires, and the ignition panel will light up. At the moment of “pseudo-theft”, the gearshift lever must be in the neutral position. Next, try to send a signal to the starter by briefly connecting the thick red wire with a blue or other wire, selected experimentally.
In fairly new cars, this old-fashioned starting method will not help: they have electronic lock control. But problems with it jamming are unlikely to arise.
If you manage to start the engine, it does not mean that the problem has been resolved. In the case when the car is equipped with an electric steering lock system, it is possible that it will “release” the steering wheel, and it will be possible to rotate it and, accordingly, drive under its own power. If there is a mechanical lock, you will still have to tinker.
Video - how to start a car if the ignition switch does not work:
In old Zhiguli cars, what the car thieves did was simple: they turned the steering wheel with enormous effort, knocking off the mechanical “tooth” of the lock. In some modern cars you can do the same, maybe it will help.
If you have a tool kit, you can try to remove the ignition switch structure from the steering column along with the mechanical lock. It may be necessary to remove the steering wheel, the electronic unit on the steering control, the spiral cable to the buttons and the airbag on the steering wheel. In this case, be sure to remove the battery terminals. This is a complex technical task, so it is better to call a specialist.
In many cars, for the purpose of greater security, the lock to the steering column is attached not with bolts, but with powerful rivets. They need to be cut off. In general, the task is not simple, but solvable.
If you managed to start the car and drive to the parking lot, you need to start repairing the lock. First of all, it is necessary to replace the lock cylinder.
Starter
The immobilizer has been checked and does not give any alarms, but the engine still does not want to start. Another reason for this behavior is the starter. It’s easy to notice a problem with the starter – you won’t hear the characteristic sound of the engine starting. The mechanism simply does not spin, which means the engine will not be able to start. Everything is clear here - you need to remove and check the starter.
If the Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn, then the first reason may be the battery. It may simply be discharged. If the lights in the cabin and on the dashboard are not lit, the driver will be able to immediately notice this. However, it often happens that everything is in order, but the starter still does not work. For diagnostics, turn on the high beams and get out of the car. Dim headlights are due to the battery. It is discharged, but only to a critical level, when there is not enough power to turn the starter.
If the Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn, the best way out of this situation is to charge the battery. But if the headlights are bright in high beam mode and are not going to dim, then you will have to look for the reason elsewhere.
DIY mechanism repair
If the mechanism does not work, it must be removed. To do this, you need an open-end wrench set to “13”.
1. The process of unscrewing the fastening bolts 2. Dismantling the mechanism from the car 3. New mechanism for replacement
The removal procedure consists of the following steps:
- First, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Then we dismantle the air filter.
- Next, disconnect the traction relay control wire.
- Now you need to disconnect the power cable. To do this, move away the protective rubber cap, under which there is a positive wire.
- Then unscrew the nut that secures the power cable.
- Disconnect this wire, as well as the wire located nearby.
- Next, unscrew the nuts with a “13” wrench that secure the starter. Two are located on top, and the third can be felt with your hand below.
- After unscrewing all the nuts, you can remove the device from the studs.
Starter or wiring problems
You can use a multimeter to test the wiring. The red wire is connected to the starter contact, the black wire to ground. In a normal situation, the device will show from 12.5 to 14.5 V. If the reading is less or even zero, then there is something wrong with the wiring.
The first step is to clean the contacts, check the integrity of the wires and fuses.
If the check shows that there is current, then the starter will have to be replaced. If the latter makes clicks but does not rotate, then the starter motor has failed. If everything is the other way around, then the problem is with the retractor coil.
Signs of IAC malfunction
Among the signs that directly or indirectly indicate incorrect operation of the idle speed sensor are the following:
- the engine does not start well - it becomes impossible to start the engine without pressing the gas pedal;
- when switching to neutral gear, “dips” in speed and their instability are observed;
- when changing gears, the speed drops or the engine stalls completely;
- the engine does not warm up well at low temperatures, since increased speeds (1500 rpm) are not reached;
- after turning on energy consumers (high beams, heater, air conditioner), the speed begins to “sag” or “float”;
- The engine spontaneously increases and decreases speed.
The IAC cannot be repaired; the device must be replaced. Before changing the idle air regulator, it is advisable to flush the throttle assembly.
How to check the regulator
There are a lot of ways to diagnose ICC. The most effective and simple methods for checking the Kalina idle speed control:
- Routine IAC testing for performance. To do this, the device must be removed from the throttle assembly and the terminal block connected if it was disconnected for dismantling. After this you need to start the engine. At the moment of startup, the needle of a working device should extend. If this is not observed, the regulator is broken.
- Checking the supply of the required voltage to the sensor. You need to disconnect the terminal block from the IAC and connect a voltmeter to the terminals. After this, one person turns on the ignition, and the second measures the resistance at all terminals of the block. If there are no faults, the voltmeter reading should be approximately 50 ohms. The voltage should be at 12 V. If it is significantly less, this indicates a battery malfunction or an electrical circuit break in one of the sections.
- Measuring the resistance of the internal and external windings of the regulator. To do this you need to use a multimeter. The measurement results should not be lower than 40 Ohms and higher than 80 Ohms. If you deviate from the specified range, the idle air control must be changed.
ECU
This is another popular problem when Kalina does not start. ECUs are the “brains” of the car; they themselves are quite reliable, and if you don’t touch them, then no problems will happen. However, most often the ECU is flooded.
This often happens when antifreeze leaks. This has already been discussed in the section on the immobilizer. When installing an alarm system or when pulling car wires, they forget to install the plugs - water gets into the ECU. Repairing an electronic unit is a futile task.
In the new generation, this problem was solved, and now the ECU is located in a different location. However, now another problem has appeared - if the drain hole, which is located next to the cabin filter, is clogged, then water can enter the computer through the holes.
timing belt
A terrible problem that occurs with viburnum is a broken timing belt. It is impossible not to notice this problem. It doesn’t happen that you start the car in the morning and the belt is broken.
No, the belt breaks while moving and nothing good can happen here. The valves meet the pistons and bend them, and the entire piston can often break apart, which can lead to expensive repairs.
These are all 16 valve engines; eight valve engines do not have such consequences, because the pistons have recesses for the valves, and it is these recesses that help avoid collisions between the valves and the pistons.
No one is safe from a belt rupture, just check it more often, then you can notice the threat of a rupture and replace the belt that threatens to break in time. There is also an option to install pistons with grooves in a 16-valve engine, this will also help avoid serious consequences if the belt breaks.
Another problem - the pulley turned. Occasionally it happens that it turns over two or three teeth, because of this the sensor shows the wrong phase and the engine does not start. You need to remove the belt and check whether the mark on the pulley and the rear cover of the timing belt matches.
If not, then you need to turn the pulley (in rotation) until the marks match. The work is troublesome, you need to disassemble a lot of things to get where you need to, you also need to keep track of the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft, in general there is a lot of fuss.
Spark plug
If everything is in order with the electronic filling, you should look for the problem in the candles. Often, and especially in winter, spark plugs flood.
Compression in the engine in cold weather does not meet the standards, so the engine may not start immediately. Often flooding of spark plugs occurs due to a discharged battery, which is unable to produce a normal spark. If not, the reasons may also be in the wiring or the spark plugs themselves. The easiest way to dry the spark plugs is to press the gas to the floor and crank the engine with the starter two or more times. Often, after this the car will start. If this does not help, then for more thorough drying you should dismantle the spark plugs, then clean them, check the gap, and then dry them with a hairdryer or in the oven.
Guide to replacing the retractor on Kalina
Once access is free and nothing interferes with work, you can disconnect all terminals and power plugs. One wire can be easily removed - you just need to pull it to the side. But the other two are fastened with nuts:
We release one using a 10mm socket with a ratchet, as is clearly shown in the photo below:
Next, you can begin to unscrew the two bolts securing the retractor relay itself. Doing this is extremely inconvenient, so it’s unlikely to do without a ratchet and a thin-walled socket 8 - especially for the bottom bolt:
The upper bolt is unscrewed without an extension, using a wrench:
After this, you can remove the solenoid relay. Most likely it can be removed without an anchor, since it is hooked to the drive lever:
But then you can release the anchor, moving it a little in the right direction to remove it from the lever, and pull it back.
Now we take a new retractor and replace it. Installation is carried out in the reverse order and will not cause much trouble. It is worth noting that you will first need to insert and hook the retractor armature to the lever, and then put on the spring and insert the relay body itself.
The price of this part is about 500 rubles on average across all car dealerships.
Source
Gasoline pump
The vagaries of the fuel pump are often observed, especially in winter. The starter works, but the Kalina car refuses to start, the fuel pump cannot be heard, and an exclamation mark may flash on the dashboard.
First of all, check the pressure in the fuel system. To do this, open the hood and look for the cap on the ramp with the injectors. You can see the nipple there - if you press it, fuel should spray out. If it splashes, then the problem is not with the fuel pump.
Another reason is the relay. There is a cover in the transmission tunnel on the passenger side. It contains power coils. To eliminate the malfunction, just knock or warm them up.
If the fuel pump does not work, then you need to get to it and check the voltage. If the multimeter shows about 12 V, then the fuel pump is working. If not, then it is worth checking the fuses, as well as the relays.
IAC cleaning
Do-it-yourself troubleshooting of the idle air regulator consists of simply washing it to remove carbon deposits. To do this you need to follow the instructions:
- disconnect the wire plug from the sensor;
- Unscrew the two fastening screws with a small shaped screwdriver and remove the sensor from the mounting socket;
- Clean the needle cone using WD-40 or carburetor cleaner.
The same means can be used to wipe the regulator contacts and the entire throttle assembly.
After cleaning, the IAC is installed back. In this case, you need to measure the distance from the end of the needle to the body - it should be approximately 2.3 cm.
Won't start when warmed up
Owners also often complain that Kalina is not. The most common reasons for this behavior are problems with the coolant temperature sensor.
It may send the wrong signal, resulting in fuel being delivered incorrectly. Fuel injectors also become depressurized. As a result, the fuel mixture becomes over-rich. The injectors need to be replaced or cleaned.
These are all the reasons why the Lada Kalina refuses to start.
