Hi all! Any extraneous knocks or sounds when the car is operating should alert the driver. Regardless of the nature and origin, there should not be any unnecessary sounds during normal operation of the machine. Today I propose to talk about how the camshaft knocks, whether it can knock, why this happens and what to do in this situation.
The job of the camshaft or simply the camshaft is to control the opening and closing of the internal combustion engine valves. With its help, engine strokes are synchronized. As you know, valve knocking is also possible. We have already talked about them.
You should find out why such symptoms occur, what actions the car owner needs to take, and what consequences you should be prepared for if you do nothing.
A little about the camshaft
Fortunately for many, the camshaft is not one of the components that are positioned as capricious, often and quickly failing. The resource largely depends on the quality of the part and operating conditions.
The camshaft has a life limit. Uninterrupted operation can last from 50 to 150 thousand kilometers. These are fairly average indicators, since each situation is still individual. Active work is already underway to remove this element from the engine design. Moreover, experts say that in the future the camshaft may completely cease to be part of the engine. It will be replaced by electromagnetic actuators.
It is difficult to say how effective and realistic this will be in the near future. Plus, some skeptics doubt the correctness of the transition from a mechanical part to a computer-controlled actuator.
Video on the topic:
Camshaft play in the VAZ 2110 is one of the most common problems. If the camshaft play of the VAZ 21102 deviates from the norm, a specific knocking sound appears in the engine. This breakdown can significantly affect the normal operation of the engine. If the slightest unusual sounds appear in the engine, you must immediately check its correct functioning. Before contacting a service station, you can independently confirm your guesses. To do this, it is necessary to perform specific audio diagnostics. To do this, you may need a stethoscope.
Can the camshaft make a knocking noise?
Many people have encountered crankshaft knocking in their lifetime. But not all drivers know how and when exactly the camshaft knocks.
It's all about the sounds. They are really very similar to each other. This appears the same on different cars:
- for VAZ 2106;
- Niva has 8 valves;
- VAZ 2107;
- VAZ 2109;
- on Priora;
- VAZ 2110;
- VAZ 2114;
- for Daewoo Nexia;
- for Subaru Forester, etc.
But what should a car owner do when he hears a sound, but cannot understand what exactly is knocking? Is it the crankshaft or the camshaft?!
Here you just need to listen and observe the behavior of the car and specifically the engine. Sometimes this makes it quickly clear where the source of extraneous sound is, and which unit needs to be prepared for repair.
The key role is played by the fact whether you hear sounds when it is cold or when it is hot.
You will be able to hear sounds from the camshaft only when the internal combustion engine is cold, when the engine starts and the lubricant has had time to leave the rubbing elements. After starting, the oil will gradually lubricate them, causing the knocking noise to disappear.
- The camshaft makes so-called dull sounds;
- Noises appear precisely when the engine is cold, when the engine starts;
- Initially the crankshaft sounds similar;
- As it gains speed, the faulty crankshaft acquires a louder sound;
- In fact, the camshaft is dull and the crankshaft is sonorous;
- An increase in speed will help to accurately determine;
- If you still can’t identify it by sound, you will have to carry out diagnostics.
Based on these points, you will be able to independently diagnose the nature and source of the malfunction without any problems, and then begin the appropriate actions to eliminate them.
Eliminating camshaft knock on an 8 valve engine
Before starting work, you need to remove the engine valve cover, remove the cover of the right support cushion and pull out the valve tappets. This will free up access to the camshaft and, if necessary, allow it to be rotated to determine the play, since the shaft is completely unloaded.
When the camshaft of a VAZ-2114 or another model from this series knocks, two types of play are observed - longitudinal and transverse, and each of them has its own method of elimination.
Elimination of longitudinal play
With longitudinal or axial play, a gap appears between the rear support cover and the camshaft flange. To eliminate this gap, you need to select a sealing washer. For this purpose, galvanization with a thickness of 0.5 mm is suitable, from which a washer with an internal diameter of 25 mm and an external diameter of 35 mm is cut.
Experience shows that this is enough to eliminate the camshaft axial play. Another option is a boot from bearing 302, which is installed on the car’s generator, so it’s better not to throw them away when replacing them. After removing the boot, you need to burn it to get rid of the rubber shell. The result is a metal washer that is ideal in size.
After this, remove the rear support cover, for which you need to unscrew 2 nuts and one bolt with a 10mm wrench. The washer is installed and the cover is put back in place. It is important that after tightening the shaft rotates freely; the force may increase slightly due to the elimination of backlash, but not critically. If the camshaft is tightly clamped and rotates with great effort or does not rotate at all, you need to remove the cover again and grind the washer. It happens that installing one washer does not remove the backlash; in this case, you need to install one or two more washers.
What to do
Drivers had to deal with the fact that occasionally after the start an incomprehensible knocking sound began to appear, but when accelerating and warming up the engine it disappeared. As we have already figured out, most likely the camshaft on the engine has failed.
Now another question. What to do in such a situation? If it is the camshaft that starts knocking, you should be prepared to spend a considerable amount of money. But this is not a 100% probability, since sometimes hydraulic compensators begin to knock, or knocking noises are made by worn gears and bearings. Not all situations solve the problem by replacing the entire camshaft. If you suspect a knocking noise from this unit, it is better to immediately go for diagnostics. Due diligence can help you find out where the source of the problem is and what needs to be done about it.
It’s definitely not worth delaying diagnostics. If the compensators fail, and the problem was in them, then the chain reaction will lead to the breakdown of the shaft itself. And these are completely different expenses. So it would definitely be a good idea to check the hydraulic compensators.
You can drive a car without hydraulic compensators with a knock from the camshaft for more than 50 thousand km, but then you will probably have to completely change the engine or carry out major repairs.
As you can see, delaying the check is definitely not in your interests.
We make a washer.
For the material for the washer, I took a piece of galvanized sheet about 0.5mm thick and secured it to a piece of MDF panel with four self-tapping screws (so it wouldn’t fidget).
I drew 2 circles with a marker (inner diameter 25mm, outer 35mm) and hollowed out the inner diameter with a chisel.
I cut out the outer diameter with metal scissors, and I ended up with a curve like this, with the washer blank all covered in burrs:
I processed the inner diameter of the washer with a round file, and sharpened the sharp corners on the outer one:
Install the washer.
We put the washer on the camshaft (it should fit freely, if not, then adjust the dimensions).
I entered freely:
Put the cover back and tighten it.
Attention! Be sure to check if the camshaft is jammed.
To do this, take a key set to 17 and try to rotate the camshaft.
It should turn with the same force as before installing the washer.
If the camshaft becomes very difficult to turn, or is completely jammed, then remove the cover again, take out the washer and grind it to thickness:
How to tighten the steering rack: do it yourself
- Play in the shaft bed. It is unlikely that you will be able to solve the problem on your own. This requires boring or honing of the bed itself, or a complete replacement of the unit;
- Problems in the lubrication system. Even with a slight disruption of its operation, sound may appear. Moreover, the reason is not only in the quantity, but also in the quality of the lubricant;
- Deformation and mechanical damage. Most often, the supports burst and the neck breaks;
- Violations in the regulation of fuel supply processes;
- Development of the resource of cams. If the problem is definitely in the camshaft, and the knocking noise appears even when it’s hot, then the problem is in the cams.
It is almost impossible to give an accurate forecast as to what exactly was the source of the knocking noises without conducting comprehensive diagnostics. Masters often talk about this in various videos where the problem under consideration is described.
In any case, the knock should alert you. Whether you have hydraulic compensators or not, it does not matter. The sooner you send your car for diagnostics, the higher the chances of getting by with little damage and spending a minimum of effort and money to fix the problem. All in your hands.
Subscribe to our website, leave comments, ask relevant questions and tell your friends about our project!
Elimination of lateral play
The lateral play is determined by loosening the camshaft up and down, for which one of the covers of the support cushions is removed. This play appears when the camshaft journals and the shaft bed support pads against which they rest are worn.
First, we dismantle both camshaft cushion covers and remove excess metal using an emery stone with a fine-grained abrasive. Its surface must be perfectly flat so as not to disturb the geometry of the part. An alternative is fine-grained sandpaper glued to smooth glass.
The pad cover is ground with an abrasive to reduce its depth, causing it to hold the shaft more tightly. To prevent the emery from clogging, it is recommended to periodically water it with water. After 1-1.5 minutes of processing, the cover must be replaced and tightened, checking for play. It is important not to remove too much metal as the camshaft will stop turning. After installation, it should move without play with a slight, so-called “velvety” force.
Next, the operation is repeated with the second cover of the support cushion, while the cover that was processed earlier must be removed so that it does not interfere with determining the degree of camshaft play. After the backlash is completely eliminated, both covers are installed and the engine is assembled. After starting the engine, the knocking should stop completely.
Video: A simple way to eliminate camshaft knocking on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115.
NHẬN XÉT • 40
0.8 acres, not 8mm. What are you talking about, buddy?
Your timing belt went even further inside after 2 thousand. The pump oil will be eaten into the bolt and will rub 100%!
It's normal for him to walk around there))
They say there are regulations and the tolerance is 0.4
Of course I understood and then I thought and thought and didn’t fucking understand and then I thought, fuck it, I need all this, I don’t have a vase
Well, your engine is knocking, mine is knocking just like yours after replacement, I think that this is not normal, I’m going to go look at the camshaft
It was still necessary to bore the cap to 0, take away the old one and remove 0.7 from the old one.
maybe 10.2 and not 1.2 because (9.8 and 1.2) You won't get 0.4.
Yeah, when I poked it at 1.2 it froze for a moment
I have this sound in 1st and 2nd gears
The guy is clearly confusing meters with kilometers.
But I don't see the difference. Just like at the beginning of the video, everything is knocking.
how long was it enough?
Isn't there at least one smart person? I bought a new cover and installed it. and forgot. otherwise they're all fucked up, they're sharpening and taking it to turners!! they're suffering from bullshit!! HANDSOME GUY.
I bought a new one and to no avail
8 ml of play has dropped or something, that’s 8 tens)
This is a specific defect of the plant.
The protrusion of the old cover is 9.8 mm (0.98 cm), and the new one is 10.2 mm (1.02 cm). 10.2-9.8=0.4 mm - the difference between the old and new covers is 0.4 mm (0.04 cm).
And the car service would rip off a lot of money from you.
How I fucked with a set of vases! You'll give birth to a horse, Khadovka gearbox engine, why the hell is it better than a dead foreign car?
You need a new horse Ara!
A destroyed foreign car is also a VAZ but without spare parts!
VAZ 21 14 has no analogues in the world. I fucked up my word.
But wait 08 but I'm still a little thing
I encountered a backlash like yours, which was reduced by replacing the camshaft. The knocking didn’t bother me, the problem was different, I’ll try to send a link: www.drive2.ru/b/498167279142306074/ I have a question for you, have you observed any similar timing changes?
I encountered a similar problem after replacing the pump, and at the same time I changed the belt. For about a week, different mechanics simply adjusted the belt tension, at which point the belt stopped slipping. I didn’t expect that I would encounter such a problem after replacing the belt. I didn't notice this after replacing the cover. I’m not sure that your problem is simply in the belt tension, but I can’t suggest anything more.
Source: vnclip.net
