The VAZ 2110 heater does not turn on, the injector 8 valves reasons

VAZ-2110 the heater does not work, does not blow air at all, the speed controller does not work

One of the most problematic components in the design of the VAZ 2110 is the heating system. It claims to be complex and modern, but in reality it brings a lot of problems to its owners. To describe all the problems of a dozen heaters, it will take more than one hour, so today we will focus on the complete failure of the stove in operation and touch on the block of the automatic heater control system, SAUO, as mechanics call it in the army.

How to check the cabin air temperature sensor?

To check whether the air temperature sensor on the ceiling has failed, you should take out its ends and apply a voltage of 1.2 V to the plus and minus terminals. In this case, if you set the controller knobs of the automatic heater control system to the “MIN” and “MAX” positions at the corresponding points (blue and red), then the fan should not rotate. Also, when the automatic control system is working, you can try to disable the cabin air sensor; in this case, mode “A” of the fan speed should stop working.

The stove doesn't blow at all, what's the problem?

If the heater fails, you can do the initial fault diagnosis yourself.

Unfortunately, the complex heater control system has not proven itself as a device that allows you to take the hassle off the driver and automatically maintain the set temperature. Instead, we got a lot of trouble and cold interiors in the frost. Let's go from simple to complex and first let's look at the problems with the electric heater motor. Everything is more or less simple here:

Fuse.

F18

Heater fuse location.

We check the contacts on the heater control unit and the electric motor.

Video about replacing the VAZ-2110 heater motor

Checking the automatic heater control system

The stove control system can also give out surprises. They consist in the fact that one of the speeds may not work, several, or only one, the most powerful, may work. At the same time, the SAUO block is not universal and is selected depending on the year of manufacture of the car:

One of the reasons for the failure of the stove may be the unit of the automatic heater control system.

2110-8128020-03 , price 2300 rubles, applies to the last ten years of production;
21102-8121020 , price 3100 rubles, installed on cars with air conditioning;
2110-8128020-02 , about 2 thousand, were put on the first ten years of production;
2110-8128020-01 , 1840 rubles, used on some cars until 2000.

Nevertheless, the design of all units is similar, only some parameters are different, and the signs of malfunction are similar for all.

Stove fan

Structurally, the fan consists of a DC electric motor with a commutator-brush assembly and an impeller mounted on the electric rotor. motor. The electric motor is powered from the vehicle’s on-board network. There are several modes of fan operation, the difference between which comes down only to the rotor rotation speed, and this is realized by inserting a resistor into the power supply circuit of the electric motor.

The fan operating mode is set using a handle located in the heater control unit on the center console. Initially, on the VAZ-2110, this handle was part of the design of the SAUO controller, but functioned separately from the controller itself. Later, the ACS added an automatic fan control function (position “A” on the handle), using which the controller regulates the rotation speed of the electric motor in order to maintain the set temperature.

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The electric motor used in the design of the VAZ-2110 fan is simple, but it has “weak points” - the commutator-brush assembly and bearings. Wear of these elements causes incorrect operation and complete inoperability of the fan. Short circuits and winding breaks in the stove drive are rare, but don’t forget about these breakdowns either.

Symptoms of failure. Heater components that affect fan operation

Signs of a malfunctioning stove fan are quite obvious and impossible not to notice. Common symptoms of failure:

Increased noise, grinding noise during operation.
Significant reduction in air injection efficiency.
The fan does not turn on.
Spontaneous change in the rotation speed of the electric motor.
It can be determined by ear that the electric motor is operating under heavy load.

In some cases, such consequences result from malfunctions in the power supply and fan control circuits, so you should check them first. This applies to:

fuse (blowout is the cause of complete failure of the electric motor);
resistor (if it is faulty, some speed modes of the electric motor stop working);
controller (the knob for switching fan modes is part of its design, so malfunctions of the automatic control system affect the functioning of the electric motor);
wiring terminals of the power and control circuits (oxidation, damage to wires is one of the reasons for a malfunctioning electric fan).

If diagnostics of these elements shows that they are in good working order, it is necessary to dismantle and repair the fan itself. But it can be diagnosed first.

Fan check

A check is done by directly powering the electric motor from the battery (we lay wires from the battery terminals and connect them to the power terminals of the motor) - operation under load, difficulty in gaining rotation speed, squeals and squeaks indicate wear of the drive components and the need to replace them. But if, even with direct voltage supply, the electric motor does not start, it is most likely that it has burned out or the windings have broken. Such faults are difficult to fix and it is easier to replace the entire unit.

Design features of the stove of the old and new models

The design of the electric motor of the stove on the VAZ-2110 is identical, but the fans and their location are different. On models of the first years of production, the electric fan is installed in the stove housing in front of the radiator and it is located horizontally (old-style stoves). Afterwards, the design was revised - the fan was already placed in the cabin filter housing and installed vertically (new model heaters).

Despite the design features, dismantling the fan is a simple operation and does not require complete disassembly of the stove.

On a VAZ-2110 with an old-style heater, to remove the electric fan you need to:

Dismantle the frill.
Remove the front wall of the niche in which the heater is located.
Remove the back cover of the fan housing by first unscrewing the screws and removing the clamps.
Disconnect the wiring from the fan and remove it.

As for models with a new type of stove, the technology for removing the electric stove fan on such cars is different:

dismantle the “jabot” and the front wall;
remove the air filter;
unscrew the fastening of the filter housing to the stove body and separate them;
disconnect the wiring;
remove the filter housing together with the fan;
dismantle the electric fan.

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After removing the electric motor with the impeller, we disassemble it, perform troubleshooting, replace worn elements and put it back together.

The heater only blows at one speed

Without dismantling, you can diagnose a breakdown if the fan spins only at one speed or only in the third mode . The reason is the resistor, which is installed in the heater controller itself.

When the stove operates at only one speed, you should check the resistor.

Structurally, the switch is designed so that in the first two modes the electric motor is supplied with low voltage through a resistor, and in mode 3, bypassing the resistor. You can check this using a multimeter in resistance measurement mode.

The resistance of the first speed resistor is 0.23 Ohm , the second is 0.82 Ohm . If the spiral breaks or the contact tracks are worn, the multimeter will show infinity or a break.

Depending on the controller model, it may have three or four control positions, but the principle of operation is the same and understanding the connection diagram is not so difficult. Whatever the switch is, if speeds 1 and 2 are not working, you need to check the resistance on the switch slider . Thus, you can try to restore the heater control system or replace it with a new one as a last resort. Good luck to everyone in their search and warm cozy salons!

Source

How to check the heater damper micro-reducer?

To check the damper drive, you will need an ohmmeter for measurement. In old SAUO controllers, the resistance at the minimum position of the blue dot should be from 800 to 1200 Ohms, and in new controllers - 3.5-5 kOhms. To check, you will first need to set the degrees to minimum and wait 15 seconds. Disconnect the controller connector and, with the engine running, measure the resistance between contacts X1.4 and X1.1.

At maximum temperature (red dot of the left handle), the multimeter should show 3.2-5 kOhm if the controllers are old and 1.2-1.6 kOhm if there is a new controller (1323.3854). If there is no resistance or if it does not change, it reports that the micro-gearbox shaft position sensor is faulty ( the tracks are erased ) or the ACS itself has simply failed and no voltage is supplied to the micro-gearbox.

To replace the microdetector, check the fan or repair the heater radiator, you will have to disassemble the stove.

We fix heater malfunctions on a VAZ 2110

This question worries many car enthusiasts, especially when the first severe frost and dank damp weather clearly remind us of the coming of winter. I also faced the same problem. The heater in my car either didn’t heat up at all or only warmed up very poorly.

Well, when instead of the expected warmth cold air blew out of it, my patience ran out. I decided that I needed to get rid of this problem as soon as possible, otherwise in severe frost you won’t be able to get far in such a car. How did I manage to repair the stove? Very simple. The accumulated knowledge plus a little experience, which I now share with you. I hope that my recommendations will help you repair your heater and avoid freezing in winter.

Solution options

Please note that the stove may not work even if the radiator is working. In this case, the reason should be sought in:

problems with the controller or micromotor gearbox;
interior air sensor on the ceiling;
shaft position sensor;
heater damper.

Now let's take a closer look at what problems can arise with the heater if the radiator is working.
If there is a problem with the controller, the easiest way to troubleshoot the stove is to replace the old part and test it in action. The whole job will take you no more than five minutes. If the micromotor-gearbox breaks down, you will have to tinker a little. Here it is necessary to remove the engine soundproofing shield and the frill.

Cold air

If the VAZ 2110 stove stops working and cold air is blowing out of it, then the breakdown may lie in a faulty interior sensor on the ceiling. Now I will explain the principle of operation. When the sensor is disconnected, the micromotor reducer receives a signal different from the temperature in the stove. This is why the fan stops working in high-speed “A” mode.

If the damper moves only in the extreme positions, given that the temperature sensor is disabled, there may be two reasons for the malfunction:

Controller temperature sensor malfunction.
Micromotor sensor malfunction.

The failure may have occurred due to the fan. It is installed on the temperature sensor. Check if it rotates at the MIN and MAX positions. To do this, simply apply 1.2 V to the terminals. How to check the controller? To do this, turn on the ignition. Rotate the temperature knob and measure the voltage on the long connector. This will be the pink and brown wires.

If your vehicle has a pre-2001 controller, the voltage should drop after approximately 13 seconds. Maybe a little less or more. The reduction occurs in the min position. In the max position, the voltage is supplied continuously. If the controller is a new model, then after 13 seconds of operation in both modes it will simply turn off. If the voltage remains unchanged at the output, then this part is faulty.

Damper

The reason why the stove on a VAZ 2110 with an injector does not work may be a faulty damper. The heater has two dampers - upper and lower. The upper one controls the flow of cold air, and the lower one controls the flow of hot air. This problem can be easily fixed. In old-style stoves, the damper is made of plastic. It has foam seals. In new heaters, the dampers are metal and have rubber seals.

If, when you move the damper, you hear a rumble and cold air blows from the stove, then the damper may be broken or its drive has failed. If there are cracks or splits on the plastic flap, they can be glued together with dichloroethane. The metal flap is quite difficult to break, but it can easily jam. It often gets stuck due to rust. If this was the problem, I would advise you to paint it. This will solve the problem.

This concludes the description of all possible options. I am the owner of a dozen and here I described in detail my actions during the last stove breakdown. She took a lot of patience from me. But I feel sorry for the swallow. And I want to ride in comfort in winter. I hope my advice will help you troubleshoot all problems. Return to top

Problem solving

Now let's talk about how to solve emerging issues, troubleshoot problems and return the heater to normal operation.
Each breakdown requires separate consideration.

Broken motor

Temperature not regulated

If the temperature of the air flows cannot be adjusted, the problem is hidden in the control unit or damper, or the temperature sensor on the ceiling inside the cabin does not work.

To check, turn the regulator all the way to the right and place your hand under the air flow. If warm air flows only when the regulator is in the maximum heating position, change the sensor. If that doesn't help, change the regulator. If heat is received in other positions of the regulator, the sensor should not be blamed.

Be sure to check that the damper is not stuck. It can be accessed through the engine compartment. If replacement is necessary, replace the standard plastic damper with an aluminum product. It is more durable.

Blowing cold

If the heater on your VAZ 2110 starts blowing cold air, you need to look for the reasons. The cause of the failure lies in the gear motor. A similar situation occurs in 9 out of 10 cases, so it is unlikely that you will have to look for alternative culprits.

Air flows with a broken damper

The gearmotor needs to be replaced. This is done as follows:

Wipers are removed;
The frill is dismantled;
Unscrew the three screws that hold the gearmotor;
The wiring is disconnected;
A new one is installed in place of the failed device. Ask your assistant to switch the position modes of the regulator, and at this moment you will mount the gearmotor;
The frill and wipers are returned to their place. Work is done.

But there is 1 case out of 10 that will force you to change the heater due to wear and tear of the old one. As the practice of VAZ 2110 owners shows, the heater from 2112 is best suited for replacement. Moreover, you can choose between two stove options - 2112-01 or 2112-02. The first one does not have an air filter, while the second option has one.

The windows fog up, the feet are not heated

It is not uncommon for VAZ models to have a problem when air flows normally from the stove, but it does not heat the feet and does not flow onto the windows.

Modification of air ducts

The issue can be resolved by upgrading your air ducts and getting rid of existing gaps in the cabin and warm air intake channels. This is a rather complicated procedure, the implementation of which will allow you to forget for a very long time about the problem with the stove, which does not warm your feet and does not blow on the side windows.

It would not be superfluous to install a pre-start heater. Due to it, the interior warms up faster.

Coolant leaks

The stove may not heat up due to the fact that the level of coolant, that is, coolant, decreases. Do not rush to add antifreeze to the tank. First, be sure to check for signs of leakage in the pipes and connections.

Problems with the stove on a VAZ 2110

If your radiator is leaking, the news is not good for you. You will have to dismantle it and, most likely, replace it with a new one.

The heater is very noisy

Many owners of the domestic “ten” are faced with a situation where a working stove makes a lot of noise. In this case, everything works fine, air flows spread throughout the cabin in the same way as the regulators are set.

The noise does not affect efficiency, but it becomes seriously annoying over time. Sometimes it seems that the stove will be covered with a copper basin, although it can make noise for a long time without consequences for the integrity of the device.

Let's try to figure out why it makes noise.

If the noise is similar to a squeal, or the sounds are sharp, check the fastening of the lower part of the stove. The fact is that fastening is carried out using hooks that can come off. This is what makes the noise.
The heater body sometimes gets damaged by the protrusions holding the retainer. In this case, the housing simply needs to be replaced with a new one.
If the fan itself is noisy, remove it, clean it, and check the condition of the electric motor.
The textolite washers, which are designed to prevent axial play of the fan, may also hum. Any low friction washers will be suitable as a replacement. For example, elements made of fluoroplastic. Be sure to lubricate the washer. Some people use regular machine oil, but it really only gives a temporary effect. The best lubricant in this case would be thick graphite grease or lithol.

The VAZ-2110 stove does not work: reasons

The car interior heater (stove) is intended not only to create comfortable conditions for the driver and passengers in cold weather. Its role is also to ensure proper visibility by blowing warm air onto the windshield, removing frost and moisture from it. In severe frost, you are unlikely to be able to drive normally without the heater on.

But sometimes it happens that the stove refuses to work, and at the most inopportune moment. Unfortunately, this is not uncommon for our cars.

If you suddenly discover that the stove in your VAZ-2110 has stopped working, do not rush to the service station, take a few minutes to diagnose it yourself. If you're lucky, you can fix it yourself, but if not, then at least you'll know what the problem is.

Lada 2110 Banditskaya 10 - ka › Logbook › Replacing the heater motor of a new VAZ 2110

Unfortunately, it was a quick repair; I had to do everything myself in 2 days off, given that it’s 15-18 outside, and it’s not too warm in the garage, down to -10. In general, let’s go step by step. Breakdown: I was driving for work. And suddenly, after one of the stops, I started my car, and realized that when I turned the heater motor control, nothing was happening, at first I thought, well, who knows, it happens, I tried a few more times, silence, checked the fuse, everything is fine. Realizing that the engine was noisy not because it had not been lubricated for a long time, but because it was dying, I put the car in the garage and a decision was made to repair it myself, since the cost of the engine ranged from 1000 to 1800 rubles, and I paid for the repair If only about 1000 rubles more, let's move on to the main thing: - The first thing you need is to disconnect the negative terminal! to avoid any short circuits - Next, you need to unscrew all the screws holding the casing, exactly as shown in the photo with yellow arrows.

Next, we remove the frill and see this picture

further, for more convenient removal, you will need to either bend the casing or remove it, it is difficult to remove because it is attached from below in hard-to-reach places, but I was able to do it, I think you will find it and it will not be difficult to feel with your hand where exactly it is held, so we will skip this moment.

Next, remove the cabin filter, this is the thing on the left with a mesh, there are 4 fasteners. In general, I will indicate all the mounting points where you need to unscrew so that the engine is separated from the radiator

Design features of the VAZ-2110 heater

The design of the ventilation and heating system for the interior of the “Ten” differs significantly from the cars of the “Samara” family. It is more complex, but also more effective. Firstly, there is no heater tap, i.e. the coolant, circulating in a large circle, constantly enters its radiator. Therefore, if the VAZ-2110 stove does not work, you should not immediately turn to the faucet and look for it. The temperature of the air entering the cabin is regulated by a damper driven by an electric micromotor, which is controlled manually using a special regulator, and automatically by the vehicle controller.

Secondly, manual adjustment does not take place according to the “warmer or colder” principle, but by creating the desired temperature with a special switch.

Thirdly, in the cabin of the “tens” there is a temperature sensor, based on the readings of which, the electronic control unit of the car can independently regulate the temperature and distribute air flows.

How to check the serviceability of the SAUO controller

To check the automatic control system, you will need a multimeter to measure the voltage on the pink and brown wires (turn on the ignition and turn the temperature knob). Depending on which controller is installed on the car, the voltage changes differently. On cars before 2001, a heater control controller 1303.3854 was installed; its voltage in the “min” position decreases after 13 ± 5 seconds, and is constantly supplied to o. Thus, when the output voltage of the ACS unit does not change, it is not working. On cars after 2003, block 1323.3854 and stove 2111-8101012 were installed.

When the controller malfunctions, the dampers may not work , but in order to diagnose other causes of malfunction of the VAZ 2110-12 heater, you will have to disassemble the heater.

What's wrong with the fan

The first and most common reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not work is the fan does not work. However, there may be several options here:

failed heater controller fuse;
malfunction of the mode switch on the control unit;
drive (electric motor) malfunction;
broken wiring.

Turn on the ignition and set the fan mode switch to any position except off. If at the same time you do not hear a characteristic hum and do not feel the movement of air from the deflectors, you can be sure: the reason that the VAZ-2110 stove is not working is that the heater fan is not working.

Malfunction of the ACS unit and open circuit

If an independent check of the fuse and resistor does not produce results, and the fan still does not work, you should consider the possibility of a problem with the ACS unit, as well as with an open circuit.

When actively using the stove regulators in the “ten”, “dvenashka” or “eleven”, the heating unit periodically fails. The reason for this problem is trivial - poor workmanship and board malfunction. If you have experience, you can solve the problem by soldering the contacts. As a last resort, you can replace the entire heating unit; fortunately, there are a lot of offers on the Internet with used parts for little money.

Please note that before replacing the part, you should carry out a small diagnostic to ensure that the unit is faulty. You can perform such diagnostics yourself in several steps:

Remove the block from the seat and remove the chip from the six-pin connector;
Turn on the ignition, connect the red and blue wires;
If the fan starts working, the problem lies in the unit.

Such a malfunction can be identified quite simply, so do not rush to buy and change all possible elements of the car’s heating system. To be completely sure that the unit is faulty, you can install a known working element in the car.

Another variant of the problem due to which the heater fan on the “ten” refuses to work is an open circuit. To identify this problem, you will have to remove the protective plastic casing above the fan. Also, for normal access to this electrical appliance, you will have to remove the wipers and frill.

The heater power wires are located near the motor itself, so you won’t be able to get to the wiring without disassembling the protective parts. Having removed all the interfering plastic elements, you can conduct a visual inspection of the condition of the ground and the positive power wire of the motor. Below in the photo there is a minus arrow, and next to it is a plus chip.

To test the theory of a faulty motor, you can turn on the ignition and check the voltage on the wires. If there is voltage on the wires, the electric motor of the heater motor is faulty. If desired, you can disassemble this element, but the easiest way is to install a new fan.

With any variations of engines on the “tenth” family, similar heater motors were always installed; in any case, the design of the heater on any configuration of these models remained similar. Thus, the methods presented above for checking an electric motor are applicable to any car from this VAZ family.

Checking the fuse

Let's start with the simplest. We lift the hood and find a mounting block there, and in it there is an F-18 fuse. It must be removed from the mounting socket and checked for suitability with a tester. There is another way to check, and it is much simpler. In the “ten”, this fuse is responsible for the safety of not only the heater controller, but also the glove compartment illumination lamp, as well as the cigarette lighter.

Turn on the ignition, open the glove compartment and look at the lamp. If it used to burn, but now it doesn’t, most likely the reason is the same why the VAZ-2110 stove does not work. Heater fan fuses are rated at 25 A. Please note this when replacing.

Heater fan replacement work

Please note that for self-removal you will need a certain set of tools.

Required tool:

10mm deep head;
a Phillips screwdriver, regular and short;
ratchet with extension.

To get to the heater motor, you need to perform some preparatory steps, namely:

Remove the wipers along with their arms.
Remove the top plastic trim of the windshield (frill).
Remove the hood seal and the insulation that covers the heater housing.

After this you should see the following picture:

To understand everything, it is better to watch the special video instructions that I prepared for this article. There are other videos on the network with detailed descriptions of the main stove breakdowns and how to fix them.

Switch, actuator and wiring

Checking that the fan switch is working is a little more difficult. To do this, you will need to remove the control unit and use a tester in ohmmeter mode to diagnose the variable resistance resistor.

To check the electric drive itself, you need to remove the decorative trims near the windshield from the outside and dismantle the electric motor. You can determine its serviceability by connecting the drive contacts directly to the battery terminals.

As for the wiring, its integrity is checked with the same tester in voltmeter mode at the contacts of the fan motor. If there is voltage on them (in the drive on mode), then the wiring is intact. Otherwise, it is better to contact an auto electrician.

Cold air: actuator or damper

If the VAZ-2110 stove does not work and cold air is blowing, first of all we check whether the drive is trying to change the position of the damper. To do this, turn on the ignition and rotate the position switch. In this case, you should hear whether the electric micromotor is running and whether the damper is moving. If nothing like this happens, you need to look for the problem in the switch itself, checking it for serviceability, or in the drive motor. In any case, you will have to dismantle the entire heater.

If you hear that the damper drive is working, but it does not change its position, most likely it is simply jammed. In the “tens” there may be two types of dampers: plastic and metal. And if the latter jam quite rarely, then for the plastic ones that were equipped with the first series of VAZ-2110, this is a common occurrence. The fact is that plastic is deformed under the influence of hot air, which, in fact, leads to jamming. To correct the situation, you will have to dismantle and disassemble the heater.

Fan repair (step by step)

The disassembly technology is very simple, but proceed carefully. Since electric motor failure lies in the wear of bearings and graphite brushes, let’s consider how to replace these elements:

Let's disassemble the electric motor. To do this, first remove the impeller, and then the two spring clamps of the motor support.
We remove the support.
Unscrew the screws securing the brush assembly and remove it.
Carefully knock out the rotor.
We clean the elements from dust and dirt.
From the inside of the stator, carefully bend the edges of the plate holding the bearing.
We knock out the bearing and install a new one in its place (for replacement you need bearing No. 609).
We bend the edges of the plate back.
We inspect the condition of the collector plates on the rotor and, if necessary, sand them with sandpaper (fine-grained).
We replace the worn brushes with new ones (we solder the wires of the worn ones, and in their place we solder the wires of the new elements).
We bend the stops of the brush springs (this will allow you to easily install the brush assembly in place).
We put the rotor in place.
We install and fix the brush assembly, having previously seated the brushes in their seats.
We install brush springs into the holes that covered the stops and bend the stops back.
Install the fan support and impeller.
We install the repaired fan on the car.

As you can see, it is not difficult to repair the VAZ-2110 heater fan, and this task can be handled in a garage, even without special skills in car repair.

Source

Thermostat and heater core

The reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not work may be a malfunction of one of the elements of the cooling system. We are talking about the thermostat and the heater radiator. In the first case, the coolant will circulate in a small circle due to a thermostat malfunction. Naturally, it will not get into the heater radiator. As a result, cold air will enter the cabin.

Checking the thermostat is easy. To do this, warm up the engine to operating temperature and raise the hood. Touch the lower radiator hose. It should be hot (warm). If it is cold, we can say with confidence that the stove in the VAZ-2110 stopped working precisely because the thermostat was stuck in the closed position. If the pipe is warm, the problem should be looked for further.

Another reason why the VAZ-2110 stove does not work may be a malfunction of its radiator. Most often, it becomes impassable or not completely passable for the coolant carrying heat. This happens due to the deposition of scale and dirt on the inner surface of its tubes.

To check the heater core, warm up the engine and locate its two hoses in the engine compartment. Touch them with your hand. They should both be hot. If the inlet is hot and the outlet is cold or lukewarm, the radiator is clogged. The problem of its obstruction is solved either by washing using special liquids, or by replacing the element.

Preparation

Preparatory activities do not include many complex operations. You will need to do the following:

Remove the negative terminal from the battery to de-energize the car and protect the car from possible short circuits;
Drain the coolant from the system. To do this, open the cap of the expansion tank to relieve excess pressure, and then unscrew the drain. The liquid must be drained into a special prepared container.

When draining the cooling liquid, one important rule must be observed - the procedure is carried out only when the engine has cooled down.

If in the future you are going to use the same antifreeze or antifreeze, then choose a clean container for draining.

It doesn't hurt to check the filter too.

The cabin filter can also cause the heater to not operate efficiently. Some car owners do not pay attention to this element of the ventilation system for years, although even for their own sake they must replace it along with other consumables.

A clogged cabin filter creates serious resistance to air intake, as a result of which the fan may not cope with its task. In this case, both cold and hot air will flow into the cabin in a weak flow.

Minor improvements

In winter, motorists often have to drive with the heater on. Otherwise, it will be quite cold in the cabin, and the windows tend to fog up. At the same time, many car enthusiasts may be annoyed by the rattling sound when the stove is running, which is especially audible at the maximum operating mode of the stove. The problem here is in the lower panel of the heater housing. It is attached on peculiar hooks. On the one hand, this simplifies dismantling if necessary; on the other hand, these fasteners can be easily unfastened. After this, the panel begins to vibrate, causing unpleasant sounds.

Useful tips

Finally, here are a few tips that may help extend the life of your car's interior heater.

To prevent a malfunction from catching you by surprise, check the functionality of the stove even in warm weather when it is not in use.
Pay attention to the functionality of the cigarette lighter and the glove box light. If they malfunction, check the stove as well.
Monitor the temperature of the coolant in the system. Remember that its overheating may indicate a non-working thermostat, and this can lead not only to problems with heating the interior, but also to failure of the entire engine.
Do not fill the system with low-quality coolant. This will sooner or later lead to the formation of scale and obstruction of the heater radiator.
Change the cabin filter along with the oil and fuel filters according to the routine maintenance schedule.

Source

Reasons for replacement

A fan can fail for various reasons. Most often, he begins to howl. In this case, the problem is a bearing failure. If you do not take action, then after a while the engine will simply jam. The electric motor may also burn out. In any case, you will need to install a new fan. It simply doesn't make sense to repair it. This is quite labor intensive. At the same time, the reliability of the part after such repair is not too high.