Problems with car dynamics during acceleration and ways to solve them

01/26/2022 9,036 Consultation with a specialist

Author: Ivan Baranov

Good afternoon The 2.4 engine stalls when accelerating, it feels like the ignition is late. Help me please! (Magamed)

Hello, Magamed! There can be many reasons for this, ranging from compression and spent spark plugs to the fuel filter. Of course, the problem may also be late ignition. If you had indicated the make of your car, perhaps our recommendations would have been more accurate.

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How are you doing? What's new?

I looked at the AUTOSTAT website the other day and was surprised: the Far East is the leader in premium brands, i.e. we are second after Moscow. Now all the other districts of Russia are sure that bears walk the streets here, and every second resident drives a jeep (and every first one drives a bear sled :). If you are also interested in looking at this infographic and being amazed, the link is here.

I am glad that the Far East continues to surprise Russia - it ranks second in terms of premium cars. If we put aside my humor, it’s rather sad and interesting - how did they consider this premium segment?

Does this happen to you?

When you press the gas with your foot, and the car does not immediately begin to pick up speed, but only after an interval of 1-2 seconds? Or another example: you drive and drive, but the car does not accelerate, but it feels like someone is holding it by the stern? Today, using my own example, I will describe what to do if the car does not pull, takes a long time to pick up speed, or does not immediately respond to the gas pedal.

At the moment I have a car with a 3.5 engine capacity. Before that I had cars with a volume of 1.3, 1.5 and 2.0. And yes, I understand what it’s like when you have 3.5 liters “under the saddle”. This is when “sneakers on the floor” – a second – and the horizon is nearby. To be honest, this is what I like about the current car, you feel like a living meteor. ))))

But about two weeks ago the car stopped being so playful. No warning lights came on on the panel, the car just moved sluggishly, as if it were driving not on asphalt, but on marmalade. “Old age does not come so quickly,” I thought. - “We need to see what died there”

Difficulties to eliminate

Eliminate errors in ignition and fuel supply systems, replacing the air filter with a new analogue. The “rejuvenation” of the car occurs right before our eyes by demonstrating the ability of the car to accelerate from zero to maximum speed in the first 10 seconds.

There are deficiencies found in the internal combustion engine that are eliminated while driving. It will not be difficult for an experienced car enthusiast to replace the air filter and unscrew the spark plug to check it during a short stop on the highway. It is more difficult to diagnose and correct poor functioning of the fuel system and ignition.

When the power plant growls and does not gain momentum, then you cannot do without qualified help. You should immediately contact technical centers that have modern diagnostic electronic equipment. With its help, the reasons will be found in the engine, which, when the car reaches the starting speed, does not show the power “promised” by the manufacturer.

It’s time to contact a service station even in this case, when, when the accelerator is pressed to the maximum, the driver hears the growl of the propulsion system in response. It is better to repair injection power units at trusted service stations than to read nonsense on online forums that give home-grown advice on correcting the causes of poor performance of imported internal combustion engines.

What to do if the car stalls when accelerating?

Let's look at the following positions:

1. Air filter. A dirty air filter reduces the air supply to create a fuel-air mixture - a lean mixture leads to a drop in engine power and increased fuel consumption. The quality of the air filter material also affects engine performance - don’t go cheap. To check your air filter, open the hood, remove the filter element from the housing and assess the condition. If you can already plant potatoes on it, change it urgently.
2. Spark plug. They may well be excessively worn or dirty, if the engine does not pull because of them - replace the spark plugs, this is a relatively inexpensive option for troubleshooting. However, it should be borne in mind that soot, oil or brake fluid contamination is not normal, and the reason for this is not so much in the spark plugs as in the rest of the engine components.
3. Fuel. Remember where you last refueled - perhaps it was a new gas station, or one whose fuel you had no experience using before - it is quite possible that the problem is the low quality of gasoline. Along with a decrease in torque, low-quality fuel causes instability in engine speed, difficulty starting and some other problems - depending on how bad the fuel is and what model of car.
4. Fuel filter. Just like an air filter, it can cause a loss of engine power, the physics of the process here is similar to an air filter - if in the case described above the fuel did not burn completely due to lack of air, then in the case of a dirty fuel filter, on the contrary, an insufficient amount of fuel is supplied. The problem is solved by replacing the fuel filter.

Causes

Despite the fact that the car accelerates poorly in cold weather, in terms of physical characteristics it becomes more powerful. The point is the density of cold air, which increases with decreasing temperature. The amount of fuel mixture carried by it increases, and the efficiency changes in a similar way.

On a note!

Power increases by 3 percent for every 20 degree drop in temperature. This is true for gasoline, turbocharged, and diesel engines.

However, the car still does not accelerate faster; on the contrary, the “response” will be delayed. There are several reasons:

• 1) slow warming up of the main components;
• 2) changed viscosity of auxiliary fluids;
• 3) increased load on the power grid;
• 4) increased aerodynamic air resistance;
• 5) high energy consumption for moving wheels.

In order to operate adequately and use the entire fuel mixture, the engine needs to be fully warmed up. In winter this happens slowly. The car accelerates poorly and reluctantly until all the fluids, including oils, heat up. When driving quietly in city mode, this may take up to several hours, while the average trip duration is no more than half an hour.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=ZD4yBUYM4Jw

The car stalls when accelerating due to loss of power and electricity. Resources are needed for the operation of the transmission, transmission of control signals, and warming up. Therefore, the problem is especially noticeable in budget models with low initial efficiency indicators for these parameters. It’s worse if the speed increases and the engine roars, but the car does not accelerate and reacts poorly to all signals. In this case, mechanical faults can be suspected, namely:

• clogged filters;
• automatic transmission malfunction;
• failure of the pressure regulator.

As a rule, filters suffer not in winter, but in autumn, but in cold weather the problem becomes more obvious due to related factors. The same thing happens with various kinds of sensors. Due to the loads associated with “cold” operation and insufficient power supply, the elements fail before the deadline established for maintenance.

If the car becomes slow to accelerate, you can suspect low-quality gasoline. Various impurities in subzero temperatures often further thicken the mixture and clog small elements of the fuel system. As a rule, such problems appear immediately after refueling, even if there is gasoline left in the tank.

What did I do

I did not self-medicate, because, as experience shows, this is a waste of money in the absence of a convincing positive effect.

1. I did computer diagnostics, according to the results of which long-term fuel corrections were in the positive: the engine does not have enough fuel-air mixture. The control unit compensated for this deficiency by increasing the opening time of the injectors, so the car “stuck” at the start. The MAF sensor readings were low, indicating that the air filter was dirty.
2. I changed the air filter because it had become clogged during my summer travels.
3. My spark plugs are excellent, there is no carbon deposits. Despite my creativity, I do not change the brand of fuel station; I try, as they say, not to look for good from good.
4. I changed the fuel filter, and not just changed it, I flushed the fuel system. Previously, I did this procedure once a year on all my cars, I always liked the way the car was after it - playful and responsive, reacting to the gas pedal immediately when pressed.

And I started the current car for some reason, until now it remained without flushing.
The procedure itself takes about 2.5 hours, that’s all, and the result is visible under your feet. Now the car is obedient and “sensitive”, it’s very pleasant to drive. The “responsiveness” of the car, in addition to driver comfort, is also an important safety factor, so if you are a fan of fast driving like me, I RECOMMEND it. The work itself on flushing the fuel system is inexpensive, only 1,980 rubles. The amount of costs is “pull up” by the fuel filter - with this procedure it makes no sense to wash the fuel and not change the filter, but it’s worth it, it’s not a wasteful expense.

If you receive a lot of questions about this process, in the next newsletter I can clearly tell and show you everything, with an arrangement and photo illustrations. I can add on my own behalf – flushing the fuel system is wow! I had no idea that my car was so agile and powerful, yo-ho-ho!!

I wrote the main and most probable reasons for a possible decrease in engine power - you need to remember that there are a great many such reasons, from engine malfunction to a sintered catalyst, from a faulty fuel pump to a dirty throttle valve. If you were unable to install them yourself, then you definitely need to go to us and entrust this task to professionals.

Carburetor cars

The first step is to disassemble and clean the carburetor itself. In this matter, you will be helped by instructions for repairing and servicing your car, which are very easy to find on the Internet. The carburetor should be disassembled with care so as not to lose small parts: springs, screws, nuts and washers.

All metal parts needed:

1. Collect in one container, preferably metal or glass;
2. Fill with cleaner;
3. Let it sit;
4. Rinse them with water and wipe with a dry cloth.

The outlets in the carburetor must be cleaned using compressed air or a special aerosol. Do not try to clean these holes with metal tools, as this may cause them to become deformed. After cleaning and drying all parts, the carburetor should be assembled and adjusted using the same repair and maintenance instructions for your car or the almighty Google.

The next thing we check is the fuel system. We need to see if it is clogged:

1. Gasoline coarse filter;
2. Fine filter;
3. Gasoline pump.

If there is visible contamination, the parts need to be cleaned or replaced with new ones.

Next, it is recommended to check the electrical circuit of the car:

• Ignition coils;
• Spark plug tips;
• BB wires and spark plugs at the time of breakdown.

If necessary, replace faulty parts. The candles, of course, can be cleaned, but this will not bring any tangible results. If it does happen, it won't last long.

Correctly set ignition is also of considerable importance. You can configure it yourself (if you know how). If you have never encountered this, you can read literature on this topic or ask your comrades for help, or again, the omnipresent and omniscient Internet will help you.

After carrying out the above steps, the problem should be resolved. If this does not happen, then you should contact professionals.

And help me, please

Complete frequently asked questions for the site, for a section colloquially called FAQ or FAQ. What questions do you have? What's not clear?

Here are, for now, the most frequently asked questions, the answers to which are on the website:

- I have my own spare parts. Can you do some repairs?

— Is it possible to call your specialist “at home” or is it necessary to come to your auto repair center?

— I called you yesterday, and you named the price “From so many rubles.” Is it really difficult to name the exact amount?

— You have photos of certificates posted on your website. What does this mean – “certified auto repair shop”?

— How is the problem solved if the client is not satisfied with the quality of the work performed?

— Many car owners are chasing after original auto parts. Is there a technical difference between original and non-original and what do you use?

— What can your auto repair center recommend if a buyer decides to buy any of the used models?

- Tell me, I have a question about computer diagnostics of the engine - if you cannot find the cause of the car malfunction, no payment will be made for the service provided?

— When asked about the causes of the malfunction, I received a clear answer: replacement of the high-pressure hose. How can you make a diagnosis of a malfunction over the phone? Is this professionalism or p...?

— Is it possible to order original spare parts from you?

Reasons for the “check” blinking

There are quite a few reasons why the “check” may blink. Car owners claim that it can light up after washing, during the active phase of engine operation, or when the internal combustion engine does not start. The light bulb may flicker from time to time, or it may do so constantly.

Among the huge number of reasons (and there are many of them) for the activation of “Check”, this list should be highlighted:

1. Low quality gasoline.
2. Very dirty or defective spark plugs, incorrect distance between the center and side electrodes.
3. High-voltage wires with broken insulation or contact defects.
4. Problems with the ignition coil.
5. Gasoline supply occurs with irregularities, which are associated with breakdown of fuel injectors.
6. The fuel pressure is very low because the fuel pump is broken, its screens are very dirty and the throughput of the gasoline filter is reduced.
7. Malfunction of the lambda probe and catalyst.
8. Faulty ECM sensor parts.