Why does the engine speed drop when the automatic transmission is engaged?

we have 722.696 + 112.912 (W203). Some time ago, a delay began when turning on mode D both when the box was cold and when it was warm. The only difference from the ATF temperature was that a cold box had to be held with a brake, and a warm box without accelerating did not start to roll (Gesha, when he was with you in July, complained, but then, while the engine was being repaired, he didn’t get around to it). Further, with the onset of cold weather, the cold box began to drop the engine speed when turning on R, and when the minus set in, the engine was turned off. There was one peculiarity - when the engine was restarted again and R was turned on, the speed did not even drop almost at all, but if you again stood in P and waited with the engine running for half a minute, and then turned on R again, the engine stalled again, and so on until the box warmed up. What was done: 1. Star swore at the reverse gear solenoid - replaced it with a modified one, threw off the adaptations. The result is zero. 2. Replaced the GTR with a restored one - the turn-on delays disappeared and that’s all. 2.1. I looked at the connector and EGS - absolutely dry. 3. updated the software, reset the adaptations - zero.

"Drop in speed when switching automatic transmission"

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Drop in speed when switching automatic transmission

Arthur » 04/03/2010 15:24
Hello everyone!

I came across an interesting problem. Situation: we are sitting in a warm, running car, our foot is on the brake pedal, the automatic transmission is in position P. We switch the automatic transmission to position D, we feel a slight jolt and a drop in revolutions from 750-700 to 500-450 with engine vibration. The same thing happens when switching to any driving gear, that is, to everything except P and N - on them the speed returns to where it was.

Please advise how to fight?

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Arthur Tsefirenok Messages: 22 Registered: 08/04/2009 8:46 Thanked: 0 times. Thanked: 0 times. Car: Nissan Cefiro A32 1997 2.0 AT

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Re: RPM drop when shifting automatic transmission

Arthur » 04/03/2010 21:33
Well, that is, is this normal, as it should be, or are there still symptoms and by setting XX to 850 I will only deprive myself of discomfort?

I was told that if the diode bridge in the generator died, then this could theoretically happen, but in my opinion it died

Arthur Tsefirenok Messages: 22 Registered: 08/04/2009 8:46 Thanked: 0 times. Thanked: 0 times. Car: Nissan Cefiro A32 1997 2.0 AT

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Re: RPM drop when shifting automatic transmission

SecorD » 03.04.2010 21:44

Arthur wrote:
Well, that is, is this normal, as it should be, or are there still symptoms and by setting XX to 850 I will only deprive myself of discomfort?
I was told that if the diode bridge in the generator died, then this could theoretically happen, but in my opinion it died

if the diode bridge fails... that car will stop driving... it's definitely not a diode bridge! and about the XX 850... alekom777 joked... look for the link... you need cleaning and adjustment of the IAC and DZ...

Cefiro Club Almaty Maxima is an analogue of Cefira!

SecorD Honored Tsefirovod Messages: 1696 Registered: 10/21/2006 12:08 From: Almaty Thanked: 0 times. Thanked: 5 times. Diary: View diary (3) Car: Nissan Cefiro Eximo Light

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Re: RPM drop when shifting automatic transmission

Kanaev » 04/04/2010 13:05
Hello everyone!

I'm having the same nonsense. Periodically, the revolutions in position D or R drop to 500 and the car shakes, and when you put it in neutral or in park, accelerate it just once and everything becomes normal. The most interesting thing is that I recently did the prevention of CCC and DZ. I even replaced the XX valve with a new original one. Now the only suspicions are on the spark plugs since I recently checked them on a special stand under pressure for sparking. So out of three tested candles (near row

) only two work normally!!! I think it's the candles. One of these days I’ll break my piggy bank, buy new candles and I think everything will be normal!!!

Kanaev Tsefiryadnik Messages: 59 Registered: 11/29/2009 10:22 pm From: Nizhny Tagil Thanked: 0 times. Thanked: 0 times. Car: Nissan Cefiro A33 2001 2.0AT

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Re: RPM drop when shifting automatic transmission

TAX » 04.04.2010 13:09

Kanaev wrote: Hello everyone! I’ll buy new spark plugs and I think everything will be fine!!!

if the coils don’t break through and the IAC doesn’t click, “everything will be normal!!!” True, the nozzle may also spoil the picture, but this is unlikely.

TAKH Honored Tsefirovod Messages: 5312 Registered: 05/15/2008 9:19 From: Novosibirsk Thanked: 5 times. Thanked: 74 times. Car: Cefiro A-32 1998 2.0 automatic transmission

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Re: RPM drop when shifting automatic transmission

Arthur » 04/04/2010 18:28
Well, yes, but for me it’s the other way around

The spark plugs are new NGK iridium, but I haven’t looked at the KXX yet, and I probably won’t for now. The oil leak from the engine is killing me...

Arthur Tsefirenok Messages: 22 Registered: 08/04/2009 8:46 Thanked: 0 times. Thanked: 0 times. Car: Nissan Cefiro A32 1997 2.0 AT

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Re: RPM drop when shifting automatic transmission

NEEC » 04/07/2010 21:13
I have this problem when it sits at idle for 5-10 minutes in different ways, then you stick D and the drawdown to 500-400 rpm almost stalls, but only for a short time, sometimes I’m also surprised, but I didn’t attach any importance .

NEEC Tsefiryadnik Messages: 57 Registered: 07.11.2009 13:31 Thanks: 0 times. Thanked: 0 times. Car: Nissan Cefiro A32 1995 2.0AT

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Re: RPM drop when shifting automatic transmission

_ZVEZDEC_ » 08.04.2010 6:31

alekom777 wrote: Set the XX speed to 850 and you will have Part...

The valve will click due to suction, but this is not a buzzing sound.

Wise is not the one who knows a lot, but the one whose knowledge is useful. Loss is the beginning of reproduction, multitude is the beginning of loss.

_ZVEZDEC_ Honored Tsefirovod Messages: 1930 Registered: 10/01/2008 13:03 From: Regional coalition (...somewhere near Almaty) Thanked: 0 times. Thanked: 1 time. Diary: View diary (2) Car: Cefiro, 1995, 2.0AT, S-Touring

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Re: RPM drop when shifting automatic transmission

andpuxa » 04/08/2010 12:19
I noticed that the speed at xx, when parked in D, on the brake depends on the slope of the car back or forth. If the car is tilted to the front, the rpm is about 550, the steering wheel shakes, if the nose is up, the rpm is normal. I asked the specialists, they said that it was somehow related to the oil pressure

andpuxa Tsefiryanin Messages: 328 Registered: 02/16/2009 15:09 From: Novosibirsk Thanked: 0 times. Thanked: 0 times. Car: Outlander xl 3.0

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Re: RPM drop when shifting automatic transmission

goreltex » 04/09/2010 11:08
Recently I changed the IAC, the speed is normal! But today it started up poorly when cold, the revs jumped from 1400 to 1100. After working a little, it became normal! Does anyone know what could be the matter?

goreltex Tsefiryadnik Messages: 64 Registered: 04/02/2010 9:34 Thanked: 0 times. Thanked: 0 times. Car: Cefiro A33 1999 VQ20 ExcimoG

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Re: RPM drop when shifting automatic transmission

_ZVEZDEC_ » 09.04.2010 11:45

goreltex wrote: I recently changed the IAC, the speed is normal! But today it started up poorly when cold, the revs jumped from 1400 to 1100. After working a little, it became normal! Does anyone know what could be the matter?

Did you at least wash the one you bought, then install it and rebuild it???

Wise is not the one who knows a lot, but the one whose knowledge is useful. Loss is the beginning of reproduction, multitude is the beginning of loss.

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RPM freezes.

As promised, I am writing a full report on the work done to eliminate the freezing speed. First of all, you can congratulate me, I OVERCOME this disease. If someone doesn’t want to congratulate you, be jealous))) So. Car FF1 Z-tech 2.0 manual transmission. Americans. 152 l/s chip. The timing belt is installed correctly. This report is applicable to other engines and vehicles.

1. Symptoms.

The symptoms are similar to the car of a young lady with the nickname Blonde.
They freeze after acceleration in the range from 2 to 4 thousand, but do not fall in neutral. The error does not appear. The key point
is
NO ERROR
. If there is a “Chek”, then luck is with you for diagnostics and you don’t have to read further.

2. How I searched

2.1.
Naturally I went for diagnostics. In general, in the absence of a “Check engine,” there was no need to go, but like a real Russian, I went through this rake not even two, but four times. The last two times, however, were committed by smart people. Service on Ostozhenka. Although they were not cured, thank you very much for your attitude. They fought twice for four hours. They fought, and not so that there are no mistakes - go and smoke. 2.2. Having fallen into complete f*cks and, as a result, having forgotten all the knowledge that I had, in fact, I learned all this, I began to change everything in a row, fortunately there are several cars in the analysis. Naturally I started with DLDZ and KXX. The result is ZERO. The revs stay the same as before. KXX installed a new one altogether. After changing a bunch of other crap (oxygen sensor, mass meter, throttle valve, spark plugs, wires, coil, camshaft sensor, etc.), removing and installing the intake manifold 5 or 6 times, washing everything that was possible and impossible, I decided that it was time to think about it. 2.3. I thought about it, surfed the forum, re-read this section in full, sympathized with many, laughed at the story about dealers and sports driving, and thought some more. The result is “ZERO”, the speed naturally hangs. I didn’t do anything, I just thought, sympathized and laughed. 2.4. Let's return to the absence of an error
- the conclusion is that the damage is not electronic, the sensors would have detected it and the computer would have seen it. I'm starting to look for mechanics. 2.4.1. Injectors! past - perfect condition. 2.4.2. Throttle and manifold gaskets! I filled the carb with cleaner, took it off and put it back on! 2.4.3. Fuel filter! no comments, pass! But now it's new. 2.4.4. Clutch pedal sensor! I understand that it’s complete nonsense, but I replaced it and missed it! 2.4.5. Fuel pump control unit! On Europeans there is no such thing - and also bypass! Actually the pressure is normal. 2.4.6. Disabled the EGR! There has been progress, the revs still hang, they don’t reach 3000, but they stop somewhere around 2200. 2.4.7. Vacuum booster! I didn’t change it, because if there was a problem with it, then when I pressed the brake pedal, something would change or whistle, but it doesn’t. Past! 2.4.8. Stuck. I went to think.

3. Results of reflection

If the fuel system is not sealed, I’m talking about injectors that are too hot, fuel consumption increases, not speed. Well, of course they can increase, but not to that extent. We exclude the fuel system! The next component in the formation of the fuel mixture is air. If the vacuum connections on the intake manifold are broken, then there is more air, which means the speed is higher. The ECU actually then adjusts it to normal, since it sees that the car is stationary and the throttle valve is closed (by the way, an additional hint that the TPS is normal). Damn, they looked at it at the service center and used carb cleaner, and I looked at it too. BUT still air. There's just nothing left anymore. Because I also managed to connect other brains (ECU).

4.Step to victory.

1. I start the car, warm it up to 100, start pouring water from a huge syringe on all the air connections and run to look at the condition of the exhaust.
2. OPA! Condensate. 3. I'm throwing out the American intake manifold with the USR pipe. I'll put it in European! Hurray, the rpm is 1500, which means there is still some kind of whistle left. I changed a bunch of O-rings on the injectors. 4. I disconnect everything, including the brake vacuum, and plug all the holes. IMPORTANT!
Only plug it with caps or something like a bolt, so that the cap is larger than the hole, otherwise it will be sucked into the engine and you will smile. 5. There is contact! RPM NO LONGER!!!

5. VICTORY!!!

Further manipulations of plugging and unplugging showed that the rubber connection on the tube of the vacuum fuel pressure regulator was still damaged (key words - damaged, tube, connection, vacuum. not key - regulator, fuel). I blew out all the pipes with my mouth. And the funniest thing! The absorber was also damaged (a part that never breaks) or its tube, thick and corrugated with clips (a part that never breaks), was replaced in a heap. I’ll turn it off too, but a little later, because I don’t know yet how to do it correctly. I think the environment will not suffer. The collet of the pipe for the vacuum seal also aroused suspicion, but everything turned out to be normal.

HOORAY!!!

The rpm is 870 if I’m not going anywhere, on the go it’s 1200 in neutral or with the clutch depressed (it seems to be provided by the manufacturer for better pickup, tomorrow I’ll read it somewhere, but if this is not the norm, then I’ll install the old IHC and turn the screws like Valerich)
RESULT
I repeat, if there is an error - FOR DIAGNOSTICS!!!
If there is no error, there is no point in wasting time and money. Don't repeat my mistakes and keep in mind that I didn't spend any money on spare parts. We need to start with something cheap and simple!! Look for damage to all vacuum connections, check the condition of the throttle, wash the throttle and remove it (DO NOT TURN the screws on the throttle) and only then spend money on the VHF, DPS, ECU, ITD, ITP, KMS, DPS, TRATATES, housing and communal services.
P.S. Americans - turn off the USR. The hat is full - it's better without it. There is info on the forum.

and I would also be very glad if this post helped someone!

Speed drops when releasing gas on VAZ 2112 16V ECU Y5.1

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Robes

Yuri Petrovich

The throttle pipe is perfectly clean, I cleaned it recently. And the oil doesn’t drop at 96t.km. mileage

ironcat

I changed the spark plugs and only installed the MANN filter (it’s a fresh one) - no result. Yesterday I still unscrewed the spark plugs, they are in normal condition. I thought about MZ, I should try to change it, but the question is whether it can influence it.

The high-voltage wires are original, externally they seem to be in normal condition, but if necessary I will replace them with NGK ones.

Bashkirov Vladimir

I can say one thing about the vacuum brake booster - I plugged the place where the hose from the vacuum brake is put on the receiver. The result is zero. Well, regarding air leaks, how to determine this malfunction?

Moreover, as I understand it, the speed will drop if you press the brake, but my speed drops even without braking.

How to increase the “air flow” or correct the table?

It’s so simple to clean the injector nozzles, but can you say for sure whether it’s worth doing? The result is important to me; I can change the injectors. The easiest way is to guess. Although I understand that “teeth cannot be treated over the phone”

As for the compression, it’s simply excellent, the car behaves well, the dynamics are excellent, gas mileage is normal, the engine runs perfectly smooth and quiet.

Today I tried to change the ignition module - the result was zero. Previously I installed a GM TPS, I had to trim it - no result.

I myself know a couple of people with this problem.. this happens to me too (for a long time) but for some reason not all the time, but only from time to time.. not often.. (doesn’t depend on gasoline, etc.).. in general, no one has it I didn’t decide.. they just didn’t change.. they changed everything.. they installed ALL the sensors (except DPKV) from a completely new car.. the result is zero..

By the way, in the winter, this problem really bothered me for a while... I adjusted the valves, it became noticeably smaller and much less frequent, but it didn’t go away completely.. as it got warmer, it became normal.. in the middle of summer it came out again.. now everything is perfect again..

Basically, the only thing that bothers me is error 328.. there’s something knocking in the engine on the receiver side from above.. the sound is not loud, as if two massive pieces of iron are knocking in a barrel of water.. and sometimes it doesn’t knock.. at the same time, I can already hear the sound even in the cabin I hear whether an error will pop up or not.. it may not knock for two days.. maybe every other time (at a new start)... but basically now it knocks more often all the time..

Shura_with_KINEF

vic_18

Well, I tried a lot of sensors, I already learned the circuit diagram of the power supply and ignition system by heart. But so far I can’t cope with the problem. The most annoying thing is the car drives fine, problems with starting, etc. No. But the rpm stubbornly drops to 500 and then recovers.

I don’t know what to do anymore.

What if you don’t drill a hole, but install an enlarged throttle pipe 52 or 54? Or install a damper from 2123 (from Niva) because it has a larger hole in the XX regulator area than usual?

Let's sum it up

As you can see, in order to accurately determine why the engine speed is not reset, in many cases in-depth diagnostics may be necessary. For carburetor engines, cleaning and adjustment of the carburetor itself is often necessary, while the injector will require computer diagnostics.

If the problem is not on the surface (the throttle cable has become sour, after washing or dry cleaning, the carpet in the cabin is not installed correctly, which presses the gas pedal, etc.), then it is better to take the car to a service center.

The most complex situation is when the design of the power system involves the presence of a large number of sensors and actuators. In this case, even the use of diagnostic equipment does not always allow you to quickly and accurately determine the problem.

Finally, we note that timely detection of a problem allows you to save the life of the internal combustion engine and other components and assemblies. In other words, high idle speeds, floating speeds and jumps indicate that there are problems with the air/fuel supply or with mixture formation. Ignoring such problems negatively affects the engine and its service life.

Why the engine may have high idle speed. The main reasons for high idle speed on an injection engine and engines with a carburetor.

The engine twitches at idle: why does this happen? Engine jerking in idle mode, diagnostics of possible malfunctions, recommendations.

Why does the engine idle unevenly? There are jumps in idle speed. The main causes of unstable idling, diagnostics.

What symptoms indicate that the engine has started to stall: the main signs of engine stalling. Common causes of internal combustion engine tripping, diagnosis, repair.

At idle the speed “floats”: why does this happen? The main malfunctions associated with idle speed on gasoline and diesel engines.

RPM drops sharply when changing gears and stays above normal at idle

Guys, maybe someone knows what the problem might be.
I contacted the Daewoo Ultrasonic Service and they don’t know what the reason is. The bottom line is this - sometimes it suddenly starts and just as suddenly stops: 1. The idle speed is not kept above normal, usually 1.2 2. When starting off in first gear, it feels like I’m trying to get going in third, that is, the speed drops a lot and you need to put the pedal to the floor so as not to stall 3. When changing gears, the revolutions drop powerfully, when switching, you must press the gas pedal sharply 4. If it stalls, then to start it you need to turn it for 5-10 seconds (and even then it won’t always start right away) and then Immediately the revs jump to 2000. The service center says everything is fine with the car, they have done a full diagnostic, there is not even the slightest clue.

When releasing the gas, the speed is increased or “freezes”: common malfunctions

Let's start with the fact that on many cars with an injector, the ECU raises the speed while the internal combustion engine is warming up. This is necessary to ensure that the power unit operates stably after a cold start.

However, after the temperature rises, the control unit reduces the idle speed, bringing it to normal. On many cars with a carburetor, the driver independently increases the speed during warm-up, using the so-called “choke”.

Moreover, after the engine is warmed up, the normal idle speed is, on average, 650-950 rpm. If you press the gas and release the accelerator, the speed should increase, and then decrease again to the specified values.

So, let's start with common carburetor problems. Often the engine speed does not drop due to problems with the throttle valve. For example, when the driver steps on the gas, the throttle must be opened wider to allow more air to enter the cylinders to burn fuel. After the gas pedal is released, the throttle closes and the speed decreases.

If the damper does not close completely, an over-enriched mixture enters the cylinders, and the speed is increased. The cause may be severe contamination of the throttle assembly or damage to the valve itself (deformation). First you need to clean the damper; carburetor cleaning liquid is suitable as a cleaner.