Why does the car jerk when driving VAZ 2112 injector 16 valves

Quite often, when operating an injection or carburetor car, you may encounter that the engine jerks during acceleration. In other words, after sharply pressing the gas pedal, there is no clear response from the power unit, a pause-failure occurs, the speed increases in jerks, etc.

As for failure, that is, when the engine “stubs” during acceleration, there is a noticeable delay in the reactions of the internal combustion engine after the driver sharply presses the gas to increase the speed. Moreover, in both cases, when you smoothly press the gas pedal, the speed increases without jerks or delays, that is, quite predictably.

It is quite obvious that operating a vehicle with such faults is not only difficult, but also dangerous. While driving, there is no opportunity to overtake, quickly change lanes, etc. To solve the problem, the engine requires in-depth diagnostics, since it is first necessary to clearly determine the cause of the breakdown.

Next, we will talk about why an injection engine or carburetor engine jerks during acceleration, as well as what methods can be used to identify and fix problems that have arisen.

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Why does the 16-valve VAZ-2112 twitch when driving at low speeds?

Many car enthusiasts have come across the concept that at high speeds the 16-valve VAZ-2112 behaves normally, but at low speeds it begins to twitch. There is no clear explanation of the appearance of this effect in the manufacturer’s repair manuals, but after browsing the forums and talking with experienced car owners, a solution was found.

In the video, eliminating the symptoms due to which the car jerks at low speeds:

The engine stalled while driving and will not start: injector

Motors with fuel injection installed on such popular car brands as VAZ 2109, 2110, 2112, 2114 are slightly different in design compared to carburetor engines. There are some peculiarities in identifying problems that cause it to stall. More often this happens due to:

• contamination of the air flow sensor;
• contamination of the throttle assembly;
• lack of fuel pressure;
• wear or jamming of the idle air regulator;
• depressurization of the intake manifold;
• malfunctions in the ignition system.

By checking the indicated elements, diagnostics of the injector operation begins, regardless of whether it has 8 or 16 valves. In general, checking the condition of the engine of such a device is more difficult than that of a carburetor. Although there are simple cases: for example, when there is no spark.

Reasons for unstable operation of the VAZ-2112 at low speeds

General view of the 12-series engine

There are not many reasons that accompany the appearance of the jerking effect at low speeds. We can even say that everything is tied to the fuel supply system to the cylinders. So, it is necessary to identify all the reasons that are associated with the problem on the car:

• The problem is hidden in the fuel system.
• Incorrect throttle operation.
• The crankshaft sensor has failed.
• ECU.

Perhaps the reason for the car jerking is worth looking for here. When all the problems have been identified, it is worth moving on to searching for solutions to the problem.

Second reason - Fuel pump

Unfortunately, there is no warning that your fuel pump is about to fail. The first time you notice any problems is only after the car stalls. And with this malfunction, the car cannot be started again.

The serviceability of the fuel pump can be determined by a characteristic slight buzzing sound when the engine starts. If you don't hear any noise from the fuel tank when you try to start your car, it's likely that your fuel pump has failed. Since the car will not move with this problem, all you can do is tow the car to a car service center.

Diagnostics and repair

Many motorists, unable to determine the cause on their own, turn to a car service for diagnostics. On the one hand, checking systems for operability should be done at a service station, and trusted to professionals, on the other hand, the price is too expensive, it goes to extremes. Therefore, we will consider options for solving the problem with your own hands in the garage.

Before we begin, it's worth understanding why this happens.

The answer is simple: the fuel mixture that gets into the cylinder is very lean or rich, which can lead to jerks in the operation of the power unit or completely stop working. The other side of the coin may be electronics that misunderstood commands or part of the assembly has failed.

Fuel system

Dismantled fuel rail with injectors

The first place to look for a fault in the fuel system is the injectors. It is their clogging that can cause the fuel mixture to be lean or rich, and therefore to solve the problem it is necessary to dismantle this element along with the fuel rail.

The injectors are checked and cleaned on a special stand. If this is not possible, then they are replaced with new ones. Also, it is worth diagnosing the fuel rail for breakdowns. The point is that if air leaks through it, this can cause the car to jerk.

The last option to resolve the issue is that incorrect operation of the fuel pump and lack of pressure in the fuel lines leads to the fact that the gasoline mixture is lean and the car begins to twitch at low speeds.

Throttle valve

Throttle valve before and after cleaning

Here, the main problem may lie in the throttle position sensor. So, if this element malfunctions, the electronic engine control unit receives a command to change the throttle position too late, when the car is already jerking. A sharp change in the amount of forced air, as well as a rich fuel mixture, become the causes of twitching.

Crankshaft sensor

Crankshaft sensor removed from engine

The crankshaft sensor can also cause the car to jerk. This effect was more common on the first models 2110-2112. Of course, in the second and subsequent generations this problem was eliminated.

The sensor gives the ECU contact information about the crankshaft speed, but if it breaks down, the data gets stuck in the last information provided. If you drop the speed from high to low, it turns out that the information has not reached the “brains”, but a lot of fuel is still supplied. Replacing the sensor solves this problem.

Program for eliminating ECU errors

Of course, where would breakdowns be without an electronic engine control unit? Thus, accumulated errors can cause many troubles. Experienced auto electricians call this effect a “glitch.” This is when the firmware can crash due to a critical accumulation of errors. Of course, as a result of this, many malfunctions can occur, but engine jerking is one of them.

The problem can be treated quite simply - resetting errors or installing new firmware. Of course, if you don’t know how to do this, then go to a car service center, where they will quickly, but not always cheaply, repair everything.

Self-resetting ECU errors using the instrument panel on a VAZ-2112

Communities VAZ Repair and Modification Blog 12shka twitches standard treatment or unexpected reasons

Replacing the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ-2112 16 valves with your own hands

Hi all. I decided to share a couple of observations in solving this problem. Quite recently on a community forum I asked the following question: the VAZ 2112 1.5 16v began to twitch at low speeds. 1-2 plugs and then picks up speed. Getting started was a real problem. The trouble did not arise abruptly. During the winter she came out and left from time to time. Over the last 2 weeks it has become constant. Plus, dullness of acceleration at medium speeds was added and, as a result, consumption was a plus. In general, the decision was made to replace the fuel filter. Well, I decided that there was no point in carrying out a replacement without inspecting the fuel pump and the mesh on it. According to the ABC book, I relieved the pressure in the system by removing the pump terminal and starting the car, and then took out the pump.

In general, after that I replaced the filter which, for obvious reasons, was up to its ears in dirt. I noticed an interesting nuance here. Before starting work, when I started the car to relieve pressure in the system, the car worked for at most 10 seconds, then I turned it purely with the starter as written in the book. The second time I had to release the pressure when a new filter and mesh were already in place. (The tube on the filter was leaking) So the second time the machine worked for 40 seconds! It responded perfectly to the gas pedal. Even when in doubt, I checked whether the pump terminal was disconnected. After that, it started up three more times and ran for about 10 seconds. And even after that, there was a little pressure left in the system. In general, this is how you can check the condition of the filter

If a car without a terminal on the pump stalls quickly, then you need to pay attention to the filter and the fuel pump. In short, I collected everything, drove it for a drive, the car became faster, but the failure did not go away. With the car running, if you jerked the throttle valve sharply, the engine seemed to choke at first and only then picked up speed. I checked all the sensors, cleaned the brain terminal, checked the air filter

Well, I decided to try changing the spark plugs. I started to remove the wires from them and I was confused that on the old wires, when I put them on and took them off, I could clearly hear the ringing click of the contact being put on. Nothing like this was heard on the new wires. I decided to test a stupid idea and threw in an old set of high-voltage wires and... everything disappeared! The engine began to respond instantly to the throttle and began to run smoother at idle. I was very surprised, I didn’t think that there could be a failure in any section of the gas. I would never have thought of them. To check, I installed new wires and the failure appeared again. After 2 days of driving, I clearly felt the return of traction at low speeds and the absence of failure at medium speeds, and no failures. In general, this is such a mysticism. I decided to share the information with you, maybe it will be useful for someone.Z, Y. I worked in the rain and was not in the mood to take pictures at all. Therefore, for clarity, I dug up photos on the net

I checked all the sensors, cleaned the brain terminal, checked the air filter. Well, I decided to try changing the spark plugs. I started to remove the wires from them and I was confused that on the old wires, when I put them on and took them off, I could clearly hear the ringing click of the contact being put on. Nothing like this was heard on the new wires. I decided to test a stupid idea and threw in an old set of high-voltage wires and... everything disappeared! The engine began to respond instantly to the throttle and began to run smoother at idle. I was very surprised, I didn’t think that there could be a failure in any section of the gas. I would never have thought of them. To check, I installed new wires and the failure appeared again. After 2 days of driving, I clearly felt the return of traction at low speeds and the absence of failure at medium speeds, and no failures. In general, this is such a mysticism. I decided to share the information with you, maybe it will be useful for someone.Z, Y. I worked in the rain and was not in the mood to take pictures at all. Therefore, for clarity, I dug up photos on the net.

Z.Y.Y. I completely forgot! Don't forget to relieve pressure in the system! There are 2.5 kilograms! With such pressure, a gasoline shower is provided for the entire cabin. and even after resetting, I would advise unscrewing the filter tubes with glasses. The residual pressure just splashes into your eyes. Throw on any old glasses and you will look stylish in the process and your eyes won’t get hurt :):):):)…like mine

Why does the VAZ-2112 injector twitch when accelerating: symptoms and treatment

More than once, drivers encounter a problem when a VAZ-2112 begins to stall and twitch when accelerating. What is this connected with? The reason that unites all the factors remains the wrong gasoline mixture or its poor quality.

The video shows symptoms and treatment methods when the car jerks:

A front-wheel drive car of the VAZ family is considered.

Ignition

Before checking the entire system, it is necessary to identify the inoperative cylinder. This is done as follows: the high-voltage wires are pulled off the spark plugs one by one.

At the same time, the working cylinders react to this action, the engine begins to wither. If the non-working cylinder is disconnected from the ignition, the engine will not react to this in any way. After determining the inoperative cylinder, unscrew the spark plug. Problems with it or with the ignition system are indicated by the presence of fuel residues on it, the spark plug is “wet”. You can try replacing the spark plug and installing another high voltage. You may find that when you start the engine, it runs fine. If this does not happen, you need to continue checking. The simplest solution is to replace your module with one that is known to work. If this is the problem, then the engine should start working correctly. You can also check with a multimeter . To do this, you need to measure the resistance at the terminals. This needs to be done in pairs. Combine cylinders 1 and 4, as well as cylinders 2 and 3. The resistance should be between 5.2 and 5.5 ohms. The ignition module cannot be repaired; if it malfunctions, it will have to be replaced.

Main reasons

General view of engine 2112 16 valves

There are not many reasons why a car may twitch during acceleration, but motorists should know them. So, let's look at what problems contribute to this effect appearing :

• Poor quality gasoline.
• The problem is in the fuel pump or fuel system.
• Failure of the mass air flow sensor.
• Damage associated with the throttle valve.
• The malfunction is hidden in the ignition.
• The fault lies in the ECU.

The car twitches - methods of elimination

In order to eliminate the car jerking during acceleration, you will have to check each of the following systems step by step. Thus, a lot of work will need to be done. Therefore, some knowledge of engine design and other automotive systems will be required. So, let's consider the sequence of nodes in which a malfunction could occur that caused such an effect.

Poor fuel quality

A canister with a negative smiley face means low-quality gasoline

As you know, there are too many fakes on the modern petroleum products market. But this is not the worst thing, but the impurities and water contained in gasoline can lead to disruption of the engine, namely the fuel supply and injection system. Of course, at a gas station it is impossible to check the quality of gasoline that enters the fuel tank. So, even at proven and reliable gas stations you can run into low-quality fuel. The only way to protect yourself is regular diagnostics of systems. It is better to pay several times for inspection than once for repairs.

Fuel system

Fuel system diagram with explanation

As mentioned above, low-quality fuel causes clogging of the injection system. So, the fuel filter, gasoline pump or injectors may fail . Often, it is the latter malfunction that causes the car to begin to twitch during acceleration. Eliminating the cause is quite easy; to do this, you need to diagnose the fuel pump and replace the fuel filter. It is also recommended to clean the injectors or replace those that are faulty.

Mass air flow sensor and throttle

Mass air flow sensor

The DMVR and the throttle valve are inextricably linked, so diagnosing the condition of these elements should be carried out by everyone together. So, if necessary, it is worth replacing the mass air flow sensor or cleaning the throttle. This may help, but not always.

Causes of failures when pressing the gas pedal

Let's look at the main reasons:

• Spark plugs and high-voltage wires;
• Clogged fuel injectors;
• The throttle valve is dirty;
• The ignition is set incorrectly;
• Errors in the ECU;
• The air filter is clogged;
• Problems with the fuel pump.

Often, failures occur due to a breakdown of the power system. After pressing the gas pedal, the power system increases the volume of fuel supplied to the cylinders. Breakage causes a change in these proportions. Those. The motor just can't do its job.

In addition, it is possible that there may be a breakdown in the ignition system. It occurs much less frequently. It's either spark plugs or ignition wires. The spark plugs must be removed and checked. The presence of carbon deposits or too clean spark plugs indicate a rich or lean fuel mixture, respectively. This indicates that the ignition system is adjusted incorrectly.

Dips when pressing the gas pedal during acceleration

It is determined both using computer diagnostics and by the steps described below (some of the points below can be performed independently, but specialists in car services in Moscow will be able to determine the problem area more quickly and accurately):

1. The first thing you need to do is inspect the spark plugs. To do this you need to remove them. The presence of carbon deposits on the spark plugs, poor contact with the wires, or an excessively lean or rich mixture lead to spark plug malfunctions.
2. High voltage wires can also cause engine malfunction, as can ignition coils.
3. The throttle needs to be checked. If it is clogged, this causes the engine to respond untimely when pressing the gas pedal.
4. It is necessary to check the condition of the air, fuel and oil filters. They tend to get clogged, which worsens dynamics, increases fuel consumption and causes pedal failure. They need to be changed constantly, you can do it yourself, they are inexpensive and easy to install.
5. The presence of errors in the ECU leads to failures.
6. Clogged injectors. If necessary, replace or repair injectors.

The wires, as well as the rubber bands on them, should not be damaged and should not spark when the engine is running. If damage is found, this indicates that the engine is shaking and jerking begins. This may occur due to the age of the car, worn-out or low-quality spare parts, poor contact with the spark plugs, or due to the temperature of the engine.

The resistance of the coils and the temperature change together, as a result of which a gasoline car begins to jerk during acceleration. In diesel cars, jerking cannot be associated with the coils, since they are not present.

Dips when pressing the gas pedal at idle

Problems also occur at idle speed; of course, there will be fewer reasons. However, this is also a serious problem and cannot be ignored, because... The car will have difficulty starting and simply stall.

Troubleshooting is performed in the following order:

1. The first thing to check is the spark plugs. If the spark plugs are faulty, they should be replaced. We recommend replacing all spark plugs at the same time. Buy spark plugs specifically for your engine. If necessary, adjust the gap; it should be 1 mm for 92 gasoline.
2. The fuel filter and fuel pump diagnostics are checked. If a malfunction is identified, fix it.
3. The breakdown may be in the idle speed sensor.
4. Checking the injectors. If clogged, replacement or cleaning is necessary.
5. Diagnostics of the ECU for errors.
6. Checking the injector.

conclusions

Eliminating the cause of the twitching of the 16-valve VAZ-2112 during acceleration is quite difficult. Many car enthusiasts are unable to fix the problem and immediately turn to a car service center. The article discussed the main methods for troubleshooting, but there are times when the cause lies in the most unexpected place. So, it sometimes happens that engine wear becomes a problem of poor acceleration, and it can only be corrected with the help of a major overhaul and replacement of the piston.

Source

Why does it start and stall?

If you turn on the logic, there may be several main reasons why the engine stalled after starting:

• insufficient amount of fuel;
• exhaust system malfunctions;
• failures in the formation of the air-fuel mixture and its supply to the injectors.

It can be assumed that the cause is faulty spark plugs or a clogged air filter. But spark plugs do not all fail at once. If one spark plug does not work, the engine starts to stall, but this will not cause it to stall. To clog the filter to such an extent that it is unable to pass air through itself requires a lot of effort. When there is no air supply, the engine will not start at all, and even if it does start, the thrust will drop significantly. Traveling would be difficult, if not impossible.

Insufficient fuel supply

The symptom is simple: after starting, the engine runs for 5–10 seconds and stalls. In most cases, the cause is the fuel pump located in the fuel tank. To be precise, the problem is a clogged fine filter or mesh. This detail, insignificant at first glance, does not allow dirt particles to enter the fuel line, which, like water in the gas tank, is abundant (especially on cars with a mileage of 50,000 or more).

In summer, the water and other substances in the tank are liquid and can pass into the main line, but in winter they often turn into ice on the mesh filter. This causes the fuel pump to be unable to pump enough fuel to run the engine. Therefore, it turns out that the pump manages to pump a little fuel, and this is just enough to start the engine, but no more. To eliminate this problem, it is enough to replace or clean the fuel pump mesh.

Exhaust system malfunctions

Everything is simple here: if you close the pipe tightly, the engine will stall after some time. Even if you start it again, it will run for a few seconds and then die again. This happens because the exhaust gases have nowhere to go: they cannot get out, and fall through the exhaust manifold back into the combustion chambers. There, the gases mix with the air-fuel mixture, ignition becomes impossible, and the engine stalls.

Exhaust gases are not removed for several reasons:

• catalyst malfunction (can also be heavily contaminated);
• water in the muffler.

The situation with a clogged catalyst is rare. To do this, the water in it needs to freeze, but this is unlikely.

But water in the muffler happens quite often. It freezes in winter and exhaust gases cannot escape. There are few reasons why water gets in. Basically, this is a broken cylinder head, which causes antifreeze to enter the exhaust system and, mixing with condensate, freezes. Although, if the cylinder head gasket is punctured, the problem of ice in the muffler will seem like a trifle, since more serious repairs await.

Incorrect fuel/air mixture

Such situations occur frequently. In this case, the engine either does not start at all, or runs erratically. There are few reasons, these are:

• incorrect operation of the throttle assembly;
• air intake in addition to the air duct in front of the air filter (suction).

The throttle valve is directly involved in the formation of the fuel mixture, and disruption of its functioning leads to malfunctions of the power plant. The air leak makes the mixture too lean, and the engine cannot work on it, which is why it stalls. To eliminate these problems, you need to clean the throttle assembly (or replace it if it is faulty) and look for the location of the air leak.

Main reasons

General view of the 2112 16 valve engine There are not many reasons why a car may twitch during acceleration, but motorists should know them. So, let's look at what problems contribute to this effect :

• Poor quality gasoline.
• The problem is in the fuel pump or fuel system.
• Failure of the mass air flow sensor.
• Damage associated with the throttle valve.
• The malfunction is hidden in the ignition.
• The fault lies in the ECU.

The car twitches - methods of elimination

In order to eliminate the car jerking during acceleration, you will have to check each of the following systems step by step. Thus, a lot of work will need to be done. Therefore, some knowledge of engine design and other automotive systems will be required. So, let's consider the sequence of nodes in which a malfunction could occur that caused such an effect.

Poor fuel quality

A canister with a negative smiley face means low-quality gasoline.
As you know, there are too many fakes on the modern petroleum products market. But this is not the worst thing, but the impurities and water contained in gasoline can lead to disruption of the engine, namely the fuel supply and injection system. Of course, at a gas station it is impossible to check the quality of gasoline that enters the fuel tank. So, even at proven and reliable gas stations you can run into low-quality fuel. The only way to protect yourself is regular diagnostics of systems. It is better to pay several times for inspection than once for repairs.

Fuel system

Fuel system diagram with decoding
As mentioned above, low-quality fuel causes clogging of the injection system. So, the fuel filter, gasoline pump or injectors may fail . Often, it is the latter malfunction that causes the car to begin to twitch during acceleration. Eliminating the cause is quite easy; to do this, you need to diagnose the fuel pump and replace the fuel filter. It is also recommended to clean the injectors or replace those that are faulty.

Mass air flow sensor and throttle

The mass air flow sensor
DMVR and the throttle valve are inextricably linked, so diagnosing the condition of these elements should be carried out by everyone together. So, if necessary, it is worth replacing the mass air flow sensor or cleaning the throttle. This may help, but not always.

Ignition

Ignition System Kit Replacement Parts
Experience has shown that an acceleration problem may be hidden in the ignition system. In order to correct the malfunction, it is worth diagnosing the spark plugs and high-voltage wires, where the problem may lie. For the first, you need to unscrew them from the block and look for the presence of carbon deposits or oil in the spark plug wells. If necessary, replace the spark plugs, after reading the article on selection and then checking the gaps using a special feeler gauge.

High-voltage wires should be checked for breakdowns or damage to the ignition.

So, for diagnostics, a tester is used that checks the resistance of each wire. If it is discovered that one BB wire has failed, it must be replaced. The manufacturer recommends replacing all wires in one set, having first checked them with a multimeter.

ECU errors

List of engine control unit errors

Often, as practice shows, failures during acceleration can appear if errors have accumulated in the electronic engine control unit.

So, to fix the problem you will need to reset all the errors that have accumulated. If this does not help, then you should change the firmware. This type of problem elimination only works when all other causes have been eliminated, but the effect remains.

Self-diagnosis video

5.1.6 The car moves jerkily

Necessary explanation:

— jerk

— short-term spontaneous change in engine speed regardless of the position of the gas pedal. In everyday use, as a rule, there are a series of jerks; - failure

— noticeable delay in the engine response to pressing the gas pedal. Approximately can be considered as a limiting case of a jerk.

Conventionally, three types of jerks can be distinguished:

- at the moment of starting movement; — during acceleration; — with steady motion, i.e. with the gas pedal in constant position.

Warning

When using the DAAZ Solex carburetor, a very unpleasant defect occurs: when you press the gas pedal, a strong dip occurs, the engine stalls, and often there is no idle speed. Movement is only possible when the gas pedal is pressed to the floor, or you have to continuously “pump” the pedal. The reason is clogging of the fuel nozzle of the main metering system of the first chamber.

For an experienced car enthusiast

it is necessary to remove the top cover of the carburetor, as described above, unscrew the two air jets, use a thin screwdriver to unscrew the two fuel jets and remove them from the wells with a long wooden toothpick or a pointed stick. Do not mix up the jets when reinstalling them!

Then, use a syringe or a clean, lint-free cloth to remove gasoline from the float chamber and blow out the carburetor with compressed air, especially carefully - the fuel nozzle wells.

For an inexperienced car enthusiast

It is better to immediately contact a car service center. To get to the service center, cut off a piece of vinyl chloride tube 1–1.5 cm long (at least from the windshield washer tubes) and place it on the thrust lever of the second chamber drive. The engine speed will be approximately 2000 rpm. Use the clutch and brake pedals to maintain a safe speed.

Jerking when starting to move

At the moment the movement begins, the limiting case of a jerk—failure—occurs more often. The most unpleasant sensations are associated precisely with the delay in the engine’s response to pressing the gas pedal. Sometimes the engine even stalls.

The cause of failure may be either a malfunction of the carburetor accelerator pump or a malfunction of the vacuum corrector of the ignition distributor.

For work you need: wrenches “8” and “10”, Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, a clean rag, a piece of thin copper wire without insulation with a diameter of less than 0.3 mm, a compressor, a can of WD40 type liquid, possibly a portable lamp.

PERFORMANCE ORDER Jerking during acceleration The cause of jerking may be a low fuel level or a clogged fuel filter in the carburetor, a malfunction of the fuel pump or a clogged additional fuel filter, or a malfunction of the ignition system. For work you need: wrenches “8”, “10” and “13”, Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, a clean rag, a piece of thin copper wire without insulation with a diameter of less than 0.3 mm, a compressor, a can of WD40 type liquid, possibly - portable lamp. PERFORMANCE ORDER Jerks during steady motion Such jerks are most often caused by a malfunction of the ignition system. Diagnostics is required, contact a car service. The only thing you can try to do yourself: - carefully inspect the engine compartment. Turn off the ignition and check the secure fastening and seating of all wires and connectors at the switch, coil and ignition distributor. Start the engine and listen to its operation - the crackling sound when the high voltage breaks down to ground is weak, but distinct. In complete darkness, the spark during breakdown is clearly visible; - replace spark plugs regardless of their condition and mileage

Pay attention to the condition of the spark plugs - if it is abnormal, you may have to contact a car service

VAZ 2110 SHOOTS WHEN ACCELERATING Why does the VAZ 2110 move jerkily?

VAZ 21102, 2001 The following symptoms began to appear and disappear (!): When accelerating at exactly 1500 rpm, the car stalls and jerks, just above the rpm it shoots out. But in cold weather of -15 -20, if I pinch the hoses, won’t I break anything? I let off the gas and everything is fine, after which the pedal goes to the floor again and it doesn’t twitch. Averau5, my injectors on cylinders 2 and 3 are worn out and leaking. At first xx became unstable, then it began to triple and double on xx, and on the move, if the slipper was on the floor, it began to triple.

Jerks when cold

Failure in the third pot - 1. replace the explosive wire with a known good one from another car or cylinder (spark plug)2. A jerk when starting off occurs when the ECU (electronic control unit) gives a signal to start opening the throttle valve, that is, when transitioning from the XX mode to the driving mode. In this case, the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors should increase, which does not occur if there is insufficient pressure in the fuel line. There, the jerking while driving and during acceleration may be due to the mixture being too lean. But this should be shown by diagnostics in the service.

Many owners of the VAZ 2110 note that jerks occur when cold, and after warming up, the car gets into a rhythm while driving and stops “sausaging”. Hello! The problem is this. At approximately these speeds, the adsorber solenoid valve begins to “chatter.” It can be assumed that it “hangs” and the mixture becomes sharply leaner. The problem has not gone away, I will try to sort out the pressure in the ramp according to your advice. If you have some skills, you can determine the cause of jerking yourself.

While driving

Sometimes the engine even stalls. In complete darkness, the spark during breakdown is clearly visible. A specific cause of jerking during steady motion of a car with an injection engine may be a failure of the throttle position sensor. Everyone can participate in the discussion about the causes of the malfunction and other problems. If you know what to answer, write and thereby help other VAZ 2110 owners in searching for the truth.

VAZ 2110 twitches - causes and their elimination

The VAZ 2110 jerks, as a rule, for various reasons. If jerks in a VAZ car appear at the beginning of movement, these are so-called “dips”. That is, there is a feeling of the accelerator pedal failing. The driver presses the gas, and the response of the power unit to its actions comes late. Sometimes the engine may even stall. The jerk occurs precisely when the throttle valve begins to open, transferring the power unit from idle mode to operating mode under load. This occurs due to insufficient fuel in the system, which is caused by a drop in pressure. In this case, it is necessary to check the technical condition of the electric fuel pump, which is responsible for providing the required pressure in the vehicle’s injection system.

There are other situations when the VAZ 2110 jerks, not when starting to move, but during acceleration. The cause of this malfunction may be the same fuel pump. In this situation, the vehicle's ECU receives a pulse signal from the throttle position sensor that the throttle valve begins to open, maximizing the angle. This requires an immediate increase in the volume of supplied fuel, but since the pressure in the fuel line is not enough, the power unit simply does not have enough gasoline, which is why the VAZ engine begins to twitch.

Also, sometimes it is observed that a VAZ 2110 car jerks after it has reached the required speed. Jerking while driving is usually caused by inadequate operation of the vehicle's ignition system. In this case, you will probably need to go to a service station for qualified diagnostics and subsequent repairs. You can try to do the following work yourself. Having opened the hood, carefully check the condition of the high-voltage wires, whether there is a voltage breakdown anywhere, as well as their fastenings and landing sites. Inspect all ignition module connectors. You can start the power unit and listen carefully to its operation. Usually, when testing to ground, a slight crackling sound will be heard. Another mandatory action is to replace the spark plugs, even if you make sure that they are in full working order. If excessive amounts of carbon or greasy soot are found on the spark plugs, the engine itself may need repair.

1. Oil pressure sensor VAZ 2110
2. VAZ 2110 with an injector does not start
3. Wiring diagram VAZ 2110
4. Throttle valve VAZ 2115
5. Fuel pressure regulator VAZ 2114

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Prevention is better than repair

But first of all, it is necessary to find an answer to the question of why the VAZ-21124 jerks during acceleration. On the face of it, it doesn't seem like a very ordinary question. But in fact, such twitching becomes not funny at all. You start to feel especially creepy when the VAZ-21124 jerks during acceleration and the check light comes on. Trouble has become reality.

It has long been known that any breakdown is easier to prevent than to fix. Therefore, try to pay more attention to your vehicle while driving. And here a problem arises: not every driver can feel the car and determine the cause in time.

You should immediately decide on the sequence of actions:

1. Checking the car for twitching while idling is unacceptable. This should only be done when moving.
2. The check should begin on the smoothest and least dangerous section of the route, where there is no heavy traffic.
3. To check, start shifting gears one by one by pressing the gas pedal on each gear.
4. If the vehicle begins to jerk without your participation, therefore, the root cause of the problem must be sought in this problem.

Using the foot brake when driving at an angle

In order to safely drive up a hill using the foot brake and not stall, you must do the following:

Press the clutch all the way in and select first gear on the gearbox; press the clutch and wait until the car starts to “shudder.” This is the main point that you need to feel

When the car is ready to move, you need to move the brake foot to the gas; release the clutch very gently and carefully; When climbing a hill, the angle may change so that the engine does not lose speed, you need to carefully add engine speed using the gas pedal

However, novice car enthusiasts may make mistakes when using this method of lifting at a steep angle. Here are some types of such errors:

• if you do not hold the clutch, the engine may stall;
• if you transfer pressure from the brake to the accelerator at the wrong time, the car may start to roll down the hill;
• If you move your foot slowly and hesitantly from the brake to the accelerator, you may lose clutch lag and the engine may stall.

By avoiding such mistakes and adhering to the basic driving rules, you can easily and without problems start driving on a hill without losing engine power.

Why does the VAZ 2110 twitch while driving?

In ancient times, in Slavic and Germanic dialects, when denoting the number of countable objects that exceeded ten units of something, units were first indicated, and then only tens. This state of affairs has been preserved in some modern languages, in particular in German and Dutch, but in Slavic languages ​​it has changed to the opposite (first ten, and then one), but only starting from 21.

It's hard to say why this happened. Most likely, the attitude towards the score itself played a role here. In ancient times, the discovery of each new numeral was a breakthrough for the development of human consciousness, and only then became a “matter of technology.” New numerals were sometimes described using existing ones, for example, there is an opinion that 8 was designated as “twice four,” and only then did this phrase lose its original meaning, turning into one word. Much later, already in the first millennium AD, in ancient Germanic dialects 11 was designated by the phrase “one postponed” or “one remained,” 12 as “two postponed,” and only starting with 13 they said “3 is more than ten.”

This is all a hoary story, full of mysteries, but we need to know that the word ELEVEN came from the phrase “one in ten,” which can be learned from the Etymological Dictionary:

Other reasons

Finally, we note that some reasons are very rare and can be considered specific.

These include loosening the exhaust manifold, although initially it may seem that this cannot affect the engine.

In fact, on many cars, heat from the manifold is used to warm up the air entering the cylinders, and for this purpose a special screen is used, to which the air duct fits.

So, if a breakdown occurs and the exhaust gases break out, then most of them will enter the cylinders again through the air duct, and due to a lack of air, the power will decrease.

Also, the reason may lie not in the engine, but in the transmission elements, especially for cars equipped with automatic transmission.

Malfunctions in the box lead to the creation of excessive load on the engine, which will be perceived as a loss of power.

Bad fuel

Unfortunately, low-quality fuel can often be the cause of failures during acceleration. For example, if there is water in it. Of course, an engine running on such fuel will run intermittently. There are two ways out. If you are “lucky enough” to fill a full tank with such “fuel”, then it is better not to be lazy and drain it so as not to ruin the injectors and fuel pump. Or be patient and simply produce low-quality gasoline or diesel.

If the fuel pump is worn out or clogged, the receiver screen can also cause rough engine operation.

If the fuel pump is worn out or clogged, the receiver screen can also cause rough engine operation.

Power drop on a VAZ carburetor engine

To begin with, let's take VAZ cars with a carburetor power system and an 8-valve timing system - VAZ-2109, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115.

The same power plant is installed on these cars, so the reasons are identical.

Let's go through those components, due to malfunction of which a drop in dynamics may occur.

In general, the main reason that the engine does not pull is a change in the processes in the combustion chambers - a mismatch in the proportions of the air-fuel mixture, the combustion process is disrupted, the filling of the cylinders and the removal of exhaust gases does not occur as required.

Supply system

Very often, a drop in traction occurs due to the power system. Structurally, the carburetor fuel system used on cars from VAZ-2109 to VAZ-2115 is very simple and is almost completely mechanical, so identifying the cause is not particularly difficult.

A decrease in power can occur due to:

• Severely clogged fuel filter (its throughput drops and the pump is simply not able to pump the required amount of fuel);
• Contamination of the carburetor channels (the jets and fuel channels in this element have a small cross-section and debris often clogs them);
• There is air leakage in the area from the tank to the pump (because of this, the performance of the fuel pump drops sharply);
• Damage to the fuel pump membrane (a small crack in it leads to the fact that the vacuum required for pumping fuel is not created in the pump chambers);
• The fastening of the carburetor or intake manifold is loose (due to this, air leaks around the carburetor and the proportion of the air-fuel mixture is greatly disturbed);
• The hole in the fuel tank cap is clogged (because of this, a vacuum is created in the tank and it is much more difficult for the gas pump to pump gasoline out of it);

Air leaks and sensors

As you know, the injection engine is equipped with an electronic engine control system (ECM), which completely controls the operation of the power unit. This system is actually multiple sensors and a controller (ECU). Based on sensor readings, the control unit adjusts the SOP, increases or decreases the amount of fuel supplied, prepares a fuel-air mixture that will be optimal for a particular engine operating mode, etc.

If the signal is incorrect, then fuel supply may not be implemented correctly. In this case, a failure appears, which the driver feels in the form of a delay in pressing the gas, that is, a failure. Note that such failures are especially relevant on those cars with an “electronic” gas pedal. In other words, there is no direct connection to the throttle body.

Let us also add that the throttle valve must be cleaned periodically, and also on many cars it is necessary to carry out the procedure for adapting the throttle valve after cleaning this element. To avoid problems, experienced drivers clean the throttle valve at least once a year. This procedure is performed for preventive purposes.

In garage conditions, when there is no diagnostic equipment, checking electronic sensors is carried out by elimination; a multimeter tester is used for diagnostics.

• As for air leaks, this phenomenon may well lead to jerks and failures during acceleration. If excess air is sucked in somewhere, then the ECU loses the ability to correctly determine the amount of air entering the engine.

Idle speed for VAZ 2109

One of the reasons that the VAZ-2109 starts and stalls is problems with idling. The VAZ-2109 is equipped with Solex carburetors. It is almost impossible to distinguish carburetor components by appearance; there are differences in internal parts. The idle system in carburetor units regulates the minimum engine speed and is responsible for fuel consumption.

"Solex" consists of the following elements:

• Air jet.
• Channels through which air and fuel are supplied.
• Solenoid valve with fuel jet.
• Speed ​​screw.
• A needle that sets the quality of the fuel-air mixture.

The speed screw adjusts the throttle position. It should always be slightly open so that the fuel mixture flows through the carburetor into the engine at low speeds. The mixture is directed in portions, which occurs thanks to jets. The enrichment and unification of the mixture is ensured by the adjusting needle. The solenoid valve with the fuel nozzle is responsible for the fuel supply.

How does this relate to idle speed? Failure of the solenoid valve or clogged channels leads to the fact that the required doses of air are no longer delivered to the intake manifold.

In this regard, the engine loses the ability to fully perform its functions and breakdowns occur:

• The VAZ-2109 carburetor starts and immediately stalls due to the lack of idle speed.
• The presence of idle speed in this case does not guarantee the possibility of movement, since engine operation is unstable.
• The car loses momentum.

Actions in case of loss of idle speed

The solenoid valve should be checked first. To do this you need:

• Turn on the engine and increase the speed with the speed screw (this is done to prevent the car from stalling).
• Then, without stopping the engine, remove the solenoid valve wire.
• If there are no changes in engine operation, make sure there is power to the valve. This is done by connecting the wire to the solenoid valve. The tension will make itself felt through a small click.

The absence of voltage indicates that the economizer control unit has stopped working or there is a break in the wiring. It is likely that the idle speed disappeared for this reason.

If there are no problems with the power supply, the operation of the solenoid valve is checked directly:

• The fuel jet is removed.
• The solenoid valve housing is installed on the ground terminal of the power source and the positive is connected to the contact.

The valve works if its needle works, that is, “sinks”.

Idle speed may not appear in this case either. Then you should clean the valve jet and blow out the idle passages.

Step-by-step instruction:

• The solenoid valve and air filter housing are removed and the engine is turned on.
• The throttle must be operated by hand. At the same time, the idle channel is clamped with this finger.
• You need to apply gas several times with the throttle valve and release your hands so that the engine runs without a valve.
• Turn off the engine, install all parts in place and check for idle speed.

If a trickle of gasoline is leaking from the nozzle, visible to the naked eye, this means that there is a problem with the carburetor. This moment is noticeable when the engine is running at low speeds.

How to cure a car?

First you need to diagnose the fuel pump:

• remove the cover from it and carefully inspect visually, paying special attention to the area near the valve;
• If there is no o-ring, take corrective action.

In this case, the fuel pump depressurized and interruptions in the fuel supply began to occur. This is exactly what is causing the car to malfunction. After the seal is restored, the VAZ-21124 (16 valves) will begin to move smoothly along the road again. You can replace the O-ring yourself, the main thing is to find the right ring and tools.

Daewoo Nexia snow queen, GLE › Logbook › Nexia twitched at low speed

maybe it will be useful for someone, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , when starting from a stop at low speeds, the car tripped and gained speed poorly, in some places accelerating normally as if it was throwing out an anchor... there were a lot of thoughts, starting from the fuel pump and filter to the throttle valve and sensor——result === I'm going to the injector, maybe the injectors? After checking all the armor, the pump, etc., they started changing the spark plugs and one spark plug fell into the guard, I have it from 2110 or 09 - (oh well, it will fly out on its own so as not to crawl under the car) after checking it on the computer diagnosis. , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , I went to buy and in addition to jerking, the car began to mumble as if the plug was cutting, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , bought, installed a new one for 2550 rubles - everything runs fine, great, but mumbles? I went to the lift to look, maybe the muffler? But no, it turned out to be a spark plug that fell into the guard, got stuck between the guard and the pants, thereby creating an unpleasant bass(

The car jerks - check the spark

Often a car malfunction is associated with the formation of a spark, which is why it begins to behave strangely.

The easiest way to identify this problem is when descending from a hill or on a fairly flat area. To prevent this cause, it is necessary to check the spark plugs (VAZ-21124). If they fail, overheat or become unstable, replace them. The price of spark plugs (VAZ-21124) is about 700 rubles per set.

So, what should you do if the car starts to jerk when you press the gas. In order to fix the problem, you will have to find it first. For example, if the car runs on gas, the problem may lie in the vacuum regulator.

VAZ-21124 twitches when accelerating. Possibly a diaphragm malfunction

Such tremors can be triggered by an insufficient amount of fuel, which is caused by the most basic blockages of fuel filters.

To determine the technical condition of the filters, you will have to disconnect the rubber hose and blow through the mesh.

When performing this action, do not forget that the fuel tank cap must be removed.

After a certain time, the procedure must be repeated, and in addition to cleaning the filter, washing the fuel tank must be added. These actions will help avoid further clogging and extend the life of the filter. If the cause has not been eliminated and the car still twitches, pay attention to the fine filter. You may even have to replace it with a new one. To ensure unhindered flow of fuel into the tank, it is necessary to fill the specified part with it and start the power unit. To do this, you need to replace the fuel hose with a translucent tube and start pumping liquid into the filter. Finally, reinstall all the parts and apply the hand pump a few times. Only after starting the engine can you fully check its operation. Performing this action helps to quickly fill the filter with fuel.

The gearbox jerks - why and what to do?

First, let's divide the problem into two components. The first includes a gearbox design in which the driver himself controls the gear shift. The second includes all kinds of robots, automatic machines and CVTs. It should be noted that jerking while driving is not only unpleasant for the driver and passengers, but also extremely harmful to the vehicle’s transmission.

You need to immediately eliminate problems caused by engine twitching. This is sometimes not easy to do. After all, the “Check engine” symbol on the instruments does not always light up. Most often, uneven engine operation is caused by misfires in individual cylinders. The reasons may be different - leakage of unaccounted air, malfunction of spark plugs with nozzles, leaking valves, and decreased compression. A malfunction of the speed sensor and defects in the idle air control coupled with malfunctions of the throttle position sensor can also confuse the electronic engine control unit. Well, the quality of the fuel cannot be discounted, as well as the water entering the cylinders through the entire fuel path.

In other words, it is impossible to say unequivocally that it is the gearbox that is pulling. The engine can also make its own contribution, so I don’t recommend starting to repair the gearbox without a thoughtful diagnosis of the engine.

Another reason for jerking of the entire power unit, not related to the operation of the gearbox, is the failure of the supports. With damaged supports, even under normal loads, the entire unit will twitch, transmitting these vibrations to the body.

Manual transmissions

In the case of mechanics, twitching most often occurs when the engine is not warmed up. This should not be considered a defect, but you should try to avoid driving in such modes.

Jerks when shifting gears create shock loads on gears, couplings, shafts, and gearbox bearings. Chips and other damage to these expensive and difficult to repair transmission parts are possible. Often, jerking is caused by wear of the clutch mechanism, which, when used in the city or, conversely, on very rough rural roads, experiences excessive loads.

Jerking is possible due to the following driver errors when controlling the gearbox and clutch:

• Squeezing and releasing the clutch pedal with the moment of gear shifting is incorrectly coordinated;
• switching at too high engine speeds;
• shock pressing of the gas pedal after changing gear;
• driving in a gear that is too high for a given speed, when the tachometer is less than 1200–1500 rpm, and trying to accelerate from that speed in the same gear.

Automatic transmission

Automatic transmissions of various types are very complex mechanisms in terms of design. Reliable and trouble-free operation of such boxes can be ensured by constantly monitoring the health of the unit, regularly performing preventive inspections and providing quality service. Keep in mind that even a minor malfunction that the owner ignored and did not contact specialists on time can be the reason for the complete failure of this expensive device.

Let's start with single-clutch robotic gearboxes. They have all the defects described for manual transmissions. Plus, there are suboptimal algorithms written in the software. And they, in my opinion, cannot be optimal: too many external and internal factors affect the operation of this unit. Modern electronics are simply not able to take everything into account and adapt the operation of the gearbox.

For an active driver in a metropolis, such a transmission adds nothing but gray hair. I think that it is better to manually change gears on a conventional manual transmission than, so to speak, an automatic transmission.

Program for eliminating ECU errors Of course, where would breakdowns be without an electronic engine control unit. Thus, accumulated errors can cause many troubles. Experienced auto electricians call this effect a “glitch.” This is when the firmware can crash due to a critical accumulation of errors. Of course, as a result of this, many malfunctions can occur, but engine jerking is one of them.

The problem can be treated quite simply - resetting errors or installing new firmware. Of course, if you don’t know how to do this, then go to a car service center, where they will quickly, but not always cheaply, repair everything.

Self-resetting ECU errors using the instrument panel on a VAZ-2112

A few more possible reasons why a car may stall while driving

There are a number of breakdowns that are not directly related to the engine. Malfunctions can cause sudden failure of the power plant or its unstable operation.

Generator malfunction

The generator unit is responsible for recharging the battery while driving. If the device fails, the battery takes on the entire load and quickly discharges. Once the battery is completely discharged, the spark weakens or disappears completely, causing the engine to stop working.

Electrical wiring problems

Similar troubles often happen with old equipment, where the factory wiring has worn out or has been repaired several times. To fix the problem, you need to check all the wires responsible for the operation of the power plant.

Idle speed control

An incorrectly installed position of the nozzle in the carburetor or the valve on the injector can provoke failure of the unit at low speeds. Problems can also arise during gear shifts, when the load on the motor is removed. Often all it takes to fix it is flushing the system and cleaning the valves.

Low quality fuel

The next common factor is low-grade fuel. Low-quality fuel burns poorly and often contains foreign impurities that cannot support engine operation. To eliminate it, just drain the surrogate and fill the car with high-quality fuel.

Too much moisture has entered the fuel

When gasoline or diesel is saturated with moisture, its properties are lost and performance characteristics are significantly deteriorated. If water gets into the engine, the internal combustion engine suddenly stalls and will no longer start. The only way out is to purge the entire system.

Clogged air filters

A clogged air duct prevents oxygen from flowing into the system. After replacing the worn element, the unit begins to function normally.

Fuel filter clogged

The car reacts worse to the accelerator pedal, acceleration decreases and overall performance drops. If the cross-country ability becomes critically reduced, the engine will stall.

Exhaust system blockage

Some car enthusiasts do not pay enough attention to the exhaust system. The engine may stall when the catalyst or particulate filter becomes clogged. To eliminate the breakdown, the clogged element is replaced.

Crankshaft sensor

Crankshaft sensor removed from the engine The crankshaft sensor can also cause the car to jerk. This effect was more common on the first models 2110-2112. Of course, in the second and subsequent generations this problem was eliminated.

The sensor gives the ECU contact information about the crankshaft speed, but if it breaks down, the data gets stuck in the last information provided. If you drop the speed from high to low, it turns out that the information has not reached the “brains”, but a lot of fuel is still supplied. Replacing the sensor solves this problem.

Source

Main reasons

There are many reasons for this phenomenon and in most cases they are associated with a malfunction of the systems and mechanisms of the power plant.

Some of them are trivial and very easy to fix, others require quite serious repairs.

The main problem with the fact that the engine does not pull is not related to eliminating the malfunction, but to finding it.

In some cases, it is very difficult to determine what caused the reduction in traction effort and you have to go through almost the entire engine.

Therefore, we will try to indicate the main reasons why the car accelerates very “sluggishly”.

Since engines on different cars have their own design features, we will consider specific models.

Troubleshooting

To change the gears in the gearbox when you pick up speed or, conversely, reduce it, each time the engine crankshaft is disconnected and then comes into contact with the power transmission again. This happens quite often, and over time, signs of wear on the clutch parts begin to appear, which is reflected in the behavior of the car on the road while driving. Our instructions will help you figure it out. All signs of a malfunction of this unit are divided into two main groups:

• The first is when the clutch does not disengage completely, they say that it is “driving”
• The second - on the contrary, if it does not engage completely, or the VAZ 2112 clutch slips, as they say

Drives the clutch

If when you press the pedal, the discs do not move completely apart, as they say, your clutch “leads.” It turns out that the clutch discs are in contact, and complete disengagement does not occur. Many experienced drivers know how to check the clutch to see if it is not completely disengaged; there is nothing complicated in this check. At low engine speeds, press the pedal all the way and change gears. When the gears are switched quietly and easily, it means that the clutch is completely disengaged. The appearance of gear noise and difficulty during shifting means that it is “driving.” The reasons may be: a) mechanical

• The linings on the driven disk are broken or the rivets on them are loose
• The full pedal stroke has decreased (the clutch in the VAZ 2112 has become tight)
• The driven disk was warped, so its end runout began to exceed 0.5 millimeters
• The pressure plate is warped or skewed
• The driven disk hub began to jam in the splines of the gearbox input shaft
• The rivets securing the pressure spring are loose
• Irregularities have appeared on the surface of the driven disk lining (photo below)

Burnt driven disk VAZ

b) malfunctions associated with the drive, in this case, as a rule, you notice that the clutch has failed in the VAZ 2112

• Fluid leak (hydraulic)
• Air entering the system (in hydraulics)
• Broken cable (in mechanics)

To eliminate mechanical causes, we adjust the drive, clean and lubricate the splines, straighten or replace the driven disk, as well as replace the friction linings if necessary. It is worth understanding that any clutch is not eternal; it will still have to be replaced. Problems with hydraulics require pumping to remove air and top up fluid, as well as checking the tightness of connections and the integrity of pipelines. Replacement of the cable in case of wear or breakage. Repair and replacement of all parts that have failed; by the way, you can fix most problems yourself.

The clutch is slipping

If, when driving the car, you smell the smell of burnt plastic, and when going up a hill, the car greatly reduces its speed, in addition, it accelerates much worse, don’t even go to your grandmother (it’s clear and without prompting) that the clutch in your VAZ 2112 is slipping. So. :

• Simply put, the driving and driven discs, although you have the clutch engaged, are not compressed tightly enough
• There is a very simple way to find out - to do this, stop the car with the handbrake (parking brake) and start the engine
• Then, having squeezed the clutch, engage the gear, then smoothly press the gas pedal and smoothly release the clutch - the engine should stall
• But if this does not happen, it turns out that the clutch in your VAZ 21124 is actually slipping

Possible causes of slippage:

• Lack of pedal free play
• Wear or burning of the friction linings on the driven disk
• Oil gets on the friction linings themselves, on the flywheel and the release disk.

• In this case, we immediately check how easily your clutch pedal moves; if its movement is limited, try adjusting the free play and check if the problem has gone away
• When the clutch slips due to worn clutches, you need to determine how bad the wear is.
• If the wear is small, then you are very lucky; such slippage can be easily eliminated by adjusting the free play of the pedal
• When the wear of the friction linings is too great (the distance between the working elements and the rivets is no more than 0.2 millimeters), then the driven disk should be replaced with linings
• If the linings are oily, then eliminate the lubricant leak, then wash all clutch parts with kerosene, then wipe thoroughly, and lightly rub the linings themselves with sandpaper

During the start

Very often, upon startup, the highest stage of clicking is observed - breakdown, that is, a very significant delay in the engine’s response to pressing the accelerator pedal. It happens that the engine turns off. It is especially unpleasant when, for example, you are in front of a traffic light, behind: the horn already sounds and you frantically start the car.

The start-up shock occurs when the ECU (electronic control unit) sends a signal to initiate the opening of the throttle valve, that is, when switching from idling mode to driving mode.

You can read about common throttle valve malfunctions in this material: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/pitanie/drosselnaya-zaslonka.html

Throttle position sensor

In this case, the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors must increase, which does not happen if the pressure in the fuel line is insufficient.

Possible culprits for car jerking when starting:

• The fuel filter is located under the hood. It also needs to be changed periodically;
• the fuel pump network is clogged with foreign particles that enter the gas tank along with low-quality gasoline at a service station or form in the tank itself due to condensation. This is why the gas tank needs to be flushed periodically;
• pressure regulator. To replace it, you will need to remove and disassemble the fuel pump.
• a fuel pump that is about to fail completely. This is evidenced by its peculiar periodic “howl” or an increase in its noise. The pump on an injection engine can be heard even before the engine itself starts: it is initially ignited by the battery, starting to pump fuel before the starter is turned on. It is located inside the gas tank, so it becomes almost invisible when the engine is already running. In carburetor cars, the fuel pump is located under the hood and can be heard even when the engine is running;

The first step is to check what pressure the fuel system creates. Control is carried out using a pressure gauge. Connects to the fitting located on the fuel rail (under the hood). We cannot give uniform readings, since they are different on different engines.

For some, pressure below 325 kPa can be considered normal, for others – 400 kPa. That is, you need to specifically look at your instruction manual.

Engine fuel system

If the pressure gauge readings are too high, the fuel pressure regulator is faulty. If the reading is too low (less than 284 or 364 kPa, again this depends on the engine), it will be helpful to replace the fuel filter.

Diagnostics

1. Fuel lines and injection system. It is necessary to look for microcracks, defects through which air can be sucked into the system. The fuel pump is checked separately.
2. Air filter. Some car enthusiasts neglect this unit, but the source may be hidden here - a clogged filter does not allow sufficient oxygen to pass through, which provokes tremors.
3. Ignition system. This is done from spark plugs - the part is unscrewed from the socket and the body is pressed against the surface of the internal combustion engine block. At this time, you need to turn on the ignition - the task is to detect a powerful spark. If there are no current breakdowns, you should move further along the circuit to the computer or distributor. This algorithm is also relevant for other domestic cars, for example Daewoo Nexia or Lanos.
4. If no problems are found in the main engine systems, the clutch disc should be examined. Usually, when a pad wears out, jerky acceleration or jerking of the car occurs at low throttles.

Malfunctions of the power supply system, ignition and impaired mixture formation

While problems with spark plugs and filters can be identified on the road, more serious problems associated with the power and ignition system are much more difficult to diagnose and fix on site. In cases where the engine does not pick up speed, and jerks and dips are noted when pressing the gas pedal, it is necessary to check and adjust the carburetor or injector.

Let's focus on the more common electronic injection. The list of main malfunctions of modern injection internal combustion engines includes:

• malfunctions, decreased performance or contamination of the fuel pump mesh filter;
• malfunction of injection nozzles;
• problems with ECM or ECU sensors;
• ignition system malfunctions;
• air leaks and leaking fuel lines;

Often, on many cars, problems are associated with the fuel pump, which is located in the gas tank, as well as with the specified regulator. To measure fuel pressure, a pressure gauge is connected to the rail; the obtained values ​​are compared with those recommended for a particular engine. If the pressure is below normal, then the culprit may be either the fuel pump or the pressure regulator.

The regulator's task is to discharge excess fuel into the return line at a time when the pressure is higher than normal. If the settings are incorrect or the regulator itself is leaking or faulty, then the fuel will be discharged into the return line ahead of time. To check this, air is pumped in with a compressor or pump, and the pressure in the rail increases. If the regulator operates earlier than the recommended pressure, the element must be adjusted or replaced.

The reason for the twitching is the control unit

The supposed cause of the jolts lies in the gear shift. Understanding the essence of contractions is quite difficult.

Therefore, if you notice that the VAZ-21124 jerks when accelerating or driving, it is best to contact a workshop for diagnostics. An auto center can easily help determine the cause, since the problem is much easier to see in the elevator. Moving the car at idle allows you to understand not only why the car is constantly pushing, but also to monitor the smoothness of the revolutions. Sometimes this problem is much more complex than it seems, and in order to detect it, it will be necessary to create special operating conditions, which is completely impossible to do while driving.

Where is this part located?

It is located on the distributor. If a puncture in the regulator is detected, replacing the carburetor will not help either. Most likely, replacing the regulator will help solve the problem.

The next culprit for random car jerking could be the accelerator pump sprayer. To avoid damage, remove the diffusers and, by pressing the lever, evaluate the operation of the pump in each chamber. If at least one of them is unstable, then the VAZ-21124 compresses while driving. Removing the nebulizer completely to clean and purge will help solve this problem. After the procedure, the cleaned part should be reinstalled. If this was the root cause of the car's contractions, the problem is solved.

Messages 5

1 Topic by denix 2016-05-13 21:35:49

• denix
• New member
• Inactive

• Registration: 2016-05-13
• Posts: 24 Thanks : 0
• Car: VAZ 2110

Topic: VAZ 21104 jerks at low speeds

Help me get rid of the car jerking, I’ve already double-checked everything. Rail pressure 4, DPS is normal, MAF is normal, coils are normal. I connected to the computer only the injection duration was not normal, but I don’t know how to fix it, I cleaned the throttle. I don’t know where to dig anymore, please help me, attached is a photo from the diagnostic program

tkr-rxvx0Ug.jpg

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2 Reply from “Robotron” 2016-05-13 23:22:39

• "Robotron"
• Experienced
• Inactive

• Registration: 2015-11-22
• Messages: 292 Thanks : 81
• Car: VAZ - I turn it myself

Checking the ignition system

Almost all car enthusiasts begin checking the 1.6-liter VAZ-2112 engine by testing spark plugs.
With their help, you can find a cylinder that is not working at full capacity. To do this, you must first remove the high-voltage wire from each cylinder one by one. When you touch a non-working cylinder with this, the nature of the operation of the power plant will not change. Next, do a spark test to rule out problems with the power supply to it. To do this, return the wire to the spark, place it on the engine so that the electrode does not touch it. Crank the starter until sparking appears. After this, look at the spark plug body and evaluate the signs as a whole.

1. If the spark is very weak, and the spark plug visually has a lot of carbon deposits, then the reason for this may be a non-functioning air filter. When it does this, dust gets on it, which mixes with oil and fuel.
2. If the electrode of the spark plug is intact, but carbon deposits have formed on its body, then there may be several reasons: incorrectly adjusted ignition (detonation is advanced), an error in choosing a spark plug, or a lean fuel mixture.
3. If only the electrode burns out, then the malfunction is hidden in excessive enrichment of the fuel mixture, incorrectly selected spark plug, low compression pressure, air filter impermeability, and delayed detonation.

Inspect the spark plug well; if you find oil in it, then you need to adjust the operation of the caps responsible for its supply. Most often, this malfunction requires replacing the valve stem seals. There should be no cracks on the spark plug body; if there is damage, replace the spark plug, even if it is visually intact.

Additionally, it is recommended to replace high-voltage wires, as they may have microcracks. In this case, the spark is weak, but the spark plug is visually intact. If this element is damaged, you must act according to the list above. The breakdown can be fixed by adjusting the ignition, power and air supply systems.

With a weak spark, the reason sometimes lies in the timing belt - it may be loosely tensioned, which is why it has shifted by several teeth. Also check the on-board computer; perhaps there is an error in its memory, which is why systems related to the power plant do not work correctly.

While driving

It is also an unpleasant situation when the car has jerks and dips during acceleration. This can happen both when driving and when starting off. A particularly unpleasant, or even dangerous, situation can arise while driving, for example, when a car is about to overtake, and then there is a sudden failure.

The causes of jerks during acceleration can be both those already mentioned and slightly different ones:

• If you have a carbureted car that jerks when accelerating, this may indicate that the ignition is too early. You need to set the lead angle. And checking the ignition timing is quite simple: at speed 4, accelerate to 50 km/h and brake sharply. If detonation lasts 1-2 seconds, then the ignition is set perfectly, the reason is not there;
• on “injectors” everything is controlled electronically. There, the jerking while driving and during acceleration may be due to the mixture being too lean. But this should be shown by diagnostics in the service. If the sensors “know about this, but are silent,” then it is quite possible that they themselves are faulty and must be replaced.