The starter does not start and turns the VAZ-2112 injector 16 valve

Car : VAZ-2112. Asks : Abramov Ivan. The essence of the question : The engine does not start at all, what should I do?

Hello! I had such a problem that the engine would not start at all! At first it stalled when it was hot, and then it all started with the starter turning, but the fuel pump could not be heard, after some time the fuel pump began to hum, the starter turned, but the engine did not catch. I don’t know what to think anymore, please tell me?!

VAZ 2112 16 valves no spark reason

The engine stalled while driving, 21124, 16 cl. There is no spark in any cylinder.

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Only if the DPKV is faulty, the engine will not work. If any other sensor malfunctions, the engine somehow works in order to get home or to a service station.

And another reason when the engine stalls while driving is a broken timing belt.

You can also think about a faulty ignition module, but they mostly fail partially, that is, some cylinders will not get a spark, but others will; although, as an option, maybe he “quacked” the whole team. But if you have individual ignition coils, then this option is eliminated; all 4 pieces will not burn out at the same time.

If the engine does not start, but you can hear the fuel pump in the tank turning on and running, you need to check the operation of the ignition system. To do this, you need to check for the presence of a spark discharge on high-voltage wires. In this case, be sure to use a spark gap.

If you check for a break in the presence of a spark by placing the wire at a certain distance from the ground of the car, the ignition module or controller may fail due to the appearance of a large self-induction current with a large spark gap.

In addition, you can get quite noticeable and unpleasant sensations when receiving an electric shock when the insulation breaks down.

In the case when you check the spark discharge by placing a spark plug with a non-high-voltage wire on the engine body, also due to poor contact of the spark plug body with ground, a large self-induction current can form, which will lead to damage to the controller or ignition module.

The use of a spark gap is also more convenient, since most injection engines use static ignition distribution with the simultaneous supply of high voltage to two spark plugs. It is not difficult to make a spark gap yourself; here you can find several examples.

A drawing of a spark gap for simultaneously checking a spark on four high-voltage wires and a photo for checking a spark on two high-voltage wires. PAfter connecting the spark gap, crank the engine with the starter and observe the presence of a spark discharge.

The absence of a spark on one wire, when high voltage is distributed simultaneously to two spark plugs, indicates a breakdown to ground of the wire or the output of the ignition coil (ignition module).

A break in the wire or winding of the ignition coil (module) is also possible. If there is no spark at the same time on a pair of wires 1-4 or 2-3, then the ignition coil, ignition module or controller is faulty. Breakage of high-voltage wires also cannot be ruled out.

To check the integrity of high-voltage wires, it is necessary to check their resistance; it should not exceed 200 kOhm, and there should not be a large difference in resistance in a set of identical wires.

What could happen to electrical equipment?

If there is something to burn in the working cylinders, then you need to look for what will make the mixture burn. This means that you need to pay attention to the car's ignition system. This could be an ignition distributor, a high-voltage coil and wires, spark plugs. It doesn’t happen that all devices fail at the same time, so we should talk about them separately.

We will assume that the distributor is installed correctly; in this case, a failure may occur through a breakdown of the cover or slider, or a failure of the Hall sensor. However, most often the cause is poor contact in the power connector of the ignition distributor. An ignition module or coils that do not produce high voltage to produce a spark at the spark plugs can create problems.

Injectors work in conjunction with ignition modules, of which there are usually two per engine. One ensures the operation of cylinders 1 and 4, and the second - cylinders 2 and 3. In these systems, the electronic control unit, which generates control pulses for all systems, including the ignition, may be problematic. This block can only be checked by replacing it. The same can be done with ignition modules.

Sometimes the fault may come from the high voltage coil. it does not generate voltage that can create a spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture. You can check its operation if you unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder and, together with the high-voltage wire, ensure its contact with the engine ground. At this time, you need to crank the starter and watch the spark plug. The absence of a spark confirms that the ignition coil is faulty.

It is impossible not to dwell on such elements of ignition systems as spark plugs. They are the ones who ignite the combustible mixture in the working cylinders of the engine. During their operation, the metal parts of their electrodes burn out, after which the gap increases, starting the motor becomes more difficult, or even becomes impossible. Check the condition of the spark plugs regularly, especially their gap. then problems can be avoided.

You can continue to review situations when the starter turns, but the VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114 does not start. It is simply impossible to take into account absolutely all cases, but to avoid such situations, carry out routine maintenance of the machine in a timely manner, use only high-quality operating fluids.

VAZ 2110 won't start, the injector turns the starter

Probably every motorist has encountered a situation in which your car does not start, and there is little pleasure in it, especially if it happens on the road.

To begin with, it is recommended to conduct a general diagnostic of the engine and try to identify the malfunction. In this situation, in order to determine the malfunction of the VAZ 2110 power plant, it is recommended to check all operating systems of the engine, proceeding from general to specific.

Typical malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 ignition system

If the fuel supply and distributed injection systems are fully operational, you should check the serviceability of the vehicle’s ignition system.

In this system, malfunctions in the operation of the following components are possible:

Spark plug faulty. As a rule, when 1-2 spark plugs come out, the car will start, but it will be difficult or the engine will start to seize.
Breakdown of high-voltage wires; if armored wires are not replaced in a timely manner, they may fail. Accordingly, voltage will not be supplied to the spark plugs.
Failure of the ignition module. The electric current converter may fail at the moment the spark is applied; in such a situation, it is necessary to check the voltage at the output.

Temperature sensor

When they, or even just one of them, are faulty, the vehicle's on-board computer is unable to properly test the engine and therefore cannot deliver the required amount of fuel to the cylinders. In this situation, the correct and least expensive option would be to replace the control device that has become unusable. Of course, there is a theoretical possibility of testing it for suitability, but in reality it is difficult to do this at home, since special equipment is required. Calling a car service for this will require quite a lot of money and time.

Starting principle

In order to know why the engine does not start, you need to know exactly how it works. The basis for starting the engine is a spark, which depends on the ignition system and the fuel-air mixture, which is supplied in certain proportions. Therefore, if any of these components does not work as it should, startup becomes difficult or simply impossible.

Main reasons

Among all the reasons why starting an engine can be difficult, we can highlight the main ones that stand out for poor starting of a cold engine:

Low battery charge level - this reason most often occurs in the cold season, when the ambient temperature is significantly below 0 degrees Celsius. Because in such conditions, a dead car battery can lose its charge very quickly. This problem can be solved by simply replacing the battery with a new one, or periodically servicing the old one to recharge it.

The battery on the editorial car was running low. True, it was an 8-valve VAZ-2112

But the meaning is the same.

When further inspecting the ignition system, pay attention to the condition of the individual coils and spark plugs. Check them for cracks and visible signs of wear.

Also pay special attention to the condition of the working surface of the candles, as their condition can tell a lot.

The order of dismantling does not matter.

Check the pressure in the fuel rail; how to do this correctly is written in great detail here.

Actually, the ramp is under pressure

A clogged throttle valve, although not the main one, can also be the cause of difficult engine starting. It needs to be cleaned.

Throttle valve before and after cleaning

Air filter and mass air flow sensor - the air filter must be clean so that all the necessary air mass passes into the cylinders and mixes with the required amount of fuel. What to do if traces of oil are found on the filter? The answer is here.

We connect the probes of the measuring device: red to yellow, and black to green (to sensor ground).

Insufficient engine oil pressure

This reason typically appears on a cold engine, since it is much more difficult for thickened oil with insufficient pressure to reach the main components and assemblies of the engine. In this case, you may notice a low oil pressure warning light. However, as follows from practice, such problems do not occur often.

As you can see, problems with starting the engine when cold are not uncommon and there can be various reasons for this. They should be solved from least difficult to most difficult. Since even a minor problem in a small unit can prevent the entire engine from starting.

Causes

Why doesn't the VAZ 2110 start? This may be due to a malfunction:

Fuel pump
Crankshaft and camshaft sensors
Spark plugs
Ignition coils.

The reasons have been discussed, but how to eliminate them? More on this below.

Fuel pump

If the battery is charged and in good condition, but the engine is difficult to start, then you should start checking with the fuel pump. If it stops working, then the engine does not receive gasoline in the required quantity, so starting is impossible.

To make sure of this, you need to check the spark at the spark plugs. If there is a spark, then the problem should be resolved after replacing the fuel pump.

The fuel pump is replaced as follows:

You need to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

2. Then unscrew the fuel pump cap.

3. The next step is to remove the connectors from the pump.

4. Now there is free access to the device. It is necessary to loosen the fuel line clamp.

5. At this stage you will need a key. Here you need to unscrew the lines, but before doing this, release the pressure. After dismantling, it is also recommended to replace the O-rings on the fuel lines

6. Unscrew the 8 screws of the sealing cover and then remove it.

7. Now you need to remove the faulty fuel pump and install a new one in the reverse order.

Doesn't start when the engine is warm

If the VAZ 2110 doesn’t start well when it’s hot, then the problem is most likely related to the injectors. To check, you must try to start the engine. If the starter turns, the fuel pump is working properly, and the spark plugs are flooded, then the injectors are clogged. They need to be washed. However, you need to remove the injectors first. Here are the instructions:

First you need to remove the injectors. To do this, wait until the engine cools down, then disconnect the fuel pump connectors;
Start the engine and repeat until there is no reaction to turning the key. This way you can reduce the pressure in the power system;
Remove the negative terminal from the battery, and you also need to disconnect the pipes and connectors from the ramp;
Remove the intake manifold along with the throttle valve and pipe;
Now you can begin to remove the fuel rail along with the injectors;
You need to disconnect the mounting brackets from it and remove the injectors.

The first step is to remove the rubber rings. Then it is best to install new ones in their place;
Now you need to clean the nozzles, as well as the funnel-shaped surfaces;
Next, you need to simulate the operation of the injectors in the engine by connecting 2 wires from the battery to them, as well as a button;
To wash the injectors, you need to prepare a cleaning liquid that can be poured into a carburetor cleaning bottle. It must be connected to the nozzles as tightly and hermetically as possible;
Now you need to apply the cleaning agent and at the same time press the button. This should be continued until the liquid comes out evenly from the sprayer. After this, the process can be considered complete.

A cold engine will not start

What to do if a cold VAZ 2110 has trouble starting? If at the same time the starter turns, the battery is in good condition, but starting still does not occur, then you need to pay attention to the spark plugs. What to do? The spark plugs need to be unscrewed, and then new ones need to be heated and installed. After this, start the engine

If it starts, the problem was faulty spark plugs. If the problem does not go away, then you need to contact a service station, since such a malfunction cannot be eliminated on your own. Need diagnostics

After this, start the engine. If it starts, the problem was faulty spark plugs. If the problem does not go away, then you need to contact a service station, since such a malfunction cannot be eliminated on your own. Need diagnostics

What to do? The spark plugs need to be unscrewed, and then new ones need to be heated and installed. After this, start the engine. If it starts, the problem was faulty spark plugs. If the problem does not go away, then you need to contact a service station, since such a malfunction cannot be eliminated on your own. Need diagnostics.

The engine starts and stalls

Some owners of the VAZ 2110 8-valve injector also encounter such a problem that the engine starts and immediately stalls. In this case, as a rule, a light on the instrument panel with an exclamation mark lights up. This indicates that the starter needs to be replaced as it has become unusable.

For ease of dismantling, it is best to remove the air filter housing, and you must also disconnect the negative terminal from the battery;
Now there is free access to the starter. On it you need to disconnect the traction relay connector
Using a 13mm wrench, you need to unscrew the wire from the positive terminal of the starter, and then disconnect the wire

Source

Problems with the battery and electrical circuit

First of all, if the VAZ 2110 does not start, you should check the operation of the battery. The voltage at the terminals of a fully charged battery will correspond to a value of 12.6 V. When completely discharged, it drops to a level of 10.5 V. But even a high battery voltage at idle does not guarantee its stable operation, which will be discussed in more detail below .

Battery for VAZ 2110

It is worth understanding that lead batteries cannot be completely discharged. In addition, their capacity may decrease significantly depending on the number of operating cycles and the total service life. Thus, a battery with a high no-load voltage level, with electrical receivers disconnected, may be unable to produce the necessary power for the starter to operate. How can I check this?

You can determine the fact that the battery does not have the required capacity (Ampere hours) left using the same multimeter, which reads the voltage level at the battery terminals at the moment the engine starts. If the voltage drops below 10.5 V, it means the battery is completely discharged or has failed and is unable to start the VAZ-2110 starter.

Among the main reasons for battery self-discharge are the following:

the generator has failed or the voltage regulator is not working;
the ignition key is left on for a long time;
improper operation of the battery, failure due to physical wear and exhaustion of its working life;
electrical wiring faults.

In order to prevent problems with the battery and generator operation, there is a special indication on the VAZ dashboard. It reports possible problems with the generator, a broken belt drive from the drive shaft to the generator, or a faulty battery. If you don’t want to buy a new battery prematurely, problems with the generator should be resolved in the next 50-100 km. mileage after the corresponding indication appears on the dashboard.

Checking the main executive elements of the VAZ-2110 launch circuit

If the VAZ 2110 does not start, when the performance of the battery is beyond doubt, a preliminary diagnosis of the main elements involved in the starting circuit should be carried out. As a rule, after checking the functionality of all the components listed below, the machine should start:

fuel pump performance;
supplying fuel to the main cylinders of the electric motor;
timing belt malfunction;
presence of a spark in the spark plugs.

The performance of the fuel pump should be checked by hearing. It is located under the back seat. Raise the rear seat cover and turn the ignition key. A characteristic hum from the rear of the cabin indicates that the electric drive of the fuel pump is working properly.

Next, you need to remove the chip from the ignition module under the hood to turn off the spark supply to the spark plugs. This is done in order to check the presence of fuel in the main cylinders of the internal combustion engine on the VAZ-2110. Unscrew the spark plugs and briefly turn on the starter. The presence of fuel in the cylinders is determined by gasoline leaks around the threads of the mounting holes for the spark plugs.

Broken timing belt

Of course, a faulty, torn or misaligned timing belt also causes the VAZ 2110 to fail to start. By the way, on stock, non-deformed models of the 21120 engine, a torn timing belt also causes valve deformation and requires additional repairs. In this case, driving even after replacing the belt without restoring the valves is impossible.

Check for the presence of a spark in the spark plugs visually by turning on the ignition and pressing the outer metal part of the spark plug against the unpainted metal body of the car or against structural elements. Do not forget that all electrical parts of the product are under high voltage, so it is better to carry out work with insulating gloves. If there is no spark on only one spark plug, be sure to check the others and draw the appropriate conclusions.

What you need to know about diagnostics

Simple advice: you don’t need to take your car to be scanned. Due to the fact that laptops are now in almost every home, there are a lot of unscrupulous establishments where you can undergo such a check. When the program does not notice any errors, they tell you that there is nothing wrong with your car. By and large, this diagnosis can be called a simple pumping of money.

A good diagnosis should proceed as follows:

• Errors are read first.

• The signals coming from the sensors on the injector are checked.

• The pressure created by the fuel is measured.

At the very end, you should receive the correct answer about what happened and what you have to do with the car in the future.

If a car enthusiast has an engineering streak, he can try to find the reason why the VAZ-2112 does not start. In this case, you can fix the problem yourself, saving on service costs.

Lada Kalina stalled while driving and will not start, the starter is spinning, what should I do?

Car: Lada Kalina. Asks: Andrey Sherstnyov The essence of the question: The car stalled while driving and will not start!

Good afternoon, I have the same problem. I was driving my Lada Kalina car and suddenly it stalled, then I couldn’t start the car again, but the starter turns? I had to call a tow truck. What could be the reason for my problem?

Have you stalled? We are looking for reasons!

It is impossible to answer this question immediately and unambiguously. There can be many reasons for their occurrence, and in this article we will look at those that you can solve with your own hands, because if you start fixing something that is difficult to understand, you can only make things worse

It’s definitely worth understanding the cause in more detail, paying attention to possible problems in order, starting from smallest to largest.

Fuses and relays

First of all, pay attention to the ignition fuse located under the front passenger's feet.

Here we are interested in a 50 Ampere fuse

To open the lid, just pry it open with a sharp object.

1. Main relay power circuit. 2. Fuel pump. 3. ECU power supply.

Failure of the fuel pump relay, also located under the front passenger's feet, may cause the engine to fail to start.

Immobilizer

This reason occurs quite often among Lada Kalina car owners. But the thing is that the system itself is not built in the best way. The problem is very easy to notice on the instrument panel. If this icon starts blinking and beeping, then you won’t have to talk about anything other than sitting down to read the instructions. Because it is there that you can find a detailed description of what comes from the blinking assistants.

Timing belt

It happens that the Lada Kalina's timing belt breaks while driving. It is not difficult to establish this reason; you just need to visually inspect it on the engine.

Broken timing belt on engine

If such a problem happened on an 8-valve engine, then nothing unpleasant should happen. And if the engine has a 16-valve “head,” then in almost all cases, at best, only the valves will bend, and at worst, the piston will also suffer. And this already promises expensive repairs.
Since you cannot insure against timing belt rupture, you can simply avoid this cause. It is only necessary to change it in time and carry out maintenance of the tension roller. You can read about how easy it is to replace the timing belt on a Lada Kalina with your own hands in this article.

ECU (Electronic Control Unit)

Despite the fact that this device is very reliable, it often happens that it becomes the cause of a malfunction. The thing is that it is located directly under the heating radiator in the cabin, and when it leaks, antifreeze gets to the ECU, flooding the contacts. Flooding can also be caused by loose fitting of the plug as a result of pulling wires for the alarm.

Oxidized contacts on the ECU

The best place to mount the ECU is under the glove compartment.

Note!

Gasoline pump

It happens that the fuel pump fails. When the starter turns, but the engine does not start and you cannot hear the gas pumping, this may be the reason, and an exclamation mark may light up on the instrument panel.
It is very easy to diagnose this system and check for pressure. It is enough to open the hood, unscrew the black cap on the injector ramp, which should be pressed and if there is pressure, fuel should spray out.

The fuel pressure control fitting is marked with a red marker.

How to remove the fuel pump with your own hands is written in detail here. But before that, we check whether there is voltage on it; to do this, use a multimeter to check the black and red wires. If there is voltage, but the fuel pump still does not work, remove it and show it to a specialist.

Crankshaft sensor

It happens that the fuel pump works, the starter turns, the spark plugs and the ECU are in perfect order, but the car refuses to start. And the reason may be precisely the crankshaft sensor.

This is what the crankshaft sensor looks like.

You can check it and diagnose it only by removing it. Then, using a multimeter, we connect the connectors to the tips and swing them in front of its end with a screwdriver; when the sensor is working, voltage fluctuations should be observed. If there are no shifts, then the sensor should be replaced.

This is exactly what the causes of malfunctions that may occur along the way look like. Remember that the most accurate and quickest reason can be found only when diagnosing the car through the diagnostic block.

Checking the devices

When it was noticed that the VAZ-2112 does not start, you need to turn on the ignition and carefully look at the dashboard. It should display an alarm in the form of switched on lights:

• Low oil pressure.

• Signal for normal battery charging.

• “Check Engine” signal.

If the instrument panel does not react at all and does not light up when turned on, you should look for reasons why there is no power. To do this, you need to check the fastening of the terminals on the battery. Also pay attention to the fuses. When the dashboard is working, the repair of the VAZ-2112 should continue as follows. Turn your attention to the Check Engine lamp.

This warning lamp turns on when the engine is not running and informs that the ECU is in good condition and is receiving power. If the “Check Engine” indicator is not turned on, you should start checking all the ECU fuses. They are located to the right of the driver, near the front passenger seat (under the glove compartment).

The ECU (electronic control unit) is located in this place, and along with them the so-called strip, where three relays and a safety unit are located. The first relay controls the ECU. Device number 2—starting the fan. And the third numbered relay works in conjunction with the fuel pump. When the key is turned in the ignition, devices numbered one and three should click - this is the supply of electrical power to the fuel pump and control unit. There is no need to continue repairing the VAZ-2112 until the Check Engine light is in good condition.

If you have run out of repair ideas, try connecting a working ECU and checking it that way. This will determine whether it is a problem or not. If the Check Engine warning light still does not work, the ECU is most likely faulty. Without it, you won't be able to start the car. Speaking about the price of the ECU, it is worth noting that this is not a cheap thing. It costs about 100 dollars. Some spare parts for the VAZ-2112 are quite expensive. The control unit is one of them. Compared to the fact that the price for the VAZ-2112 car itself is from 150 thousand rubles, hardly anyone will buy a spare unit.

Problems with the fuel pump

Unlike other models produced by VAZ plants earlier, the fuel pump in model 2112 is located directly in the cabin behind the rear seat. First of all, you need to check whether power is supplied to the pump. This is very easy to do - just use a multimeter:

set the device switch to the constant voltage test mode, up to 20 V;
remove the special terminal from the pump;
Using probes, we check the power supply with the ignition on.

If there is power, but gasoline still does not flow, then you just need to replace the part with a new one. The renovation does not make any economic sense.

Checking the operation of the fuel pump

When turning the key in the ignition mechanism, a distinct sound should be heard in the rear seat area. This hum is created by a running pump that pumps fuel. When there is no sound, you need to check the relay that controls the fuel pump and the corresponding fuses. If the problem is not with them and they work flawlessly, you should measure the voltage that passes through the pump terminals.

Possible malfunctions of the fuel supply system of the VAZ 2110

One of the major malfunctions of the fuel supply system are:

failure of the fuel pump.

clogged fuel line

clogged distributed injection nozzles

To diagnose the performance of the fuel supply pump, it is necessary to remove the hose from the fuel rail and check the pressure in the system. If necessary, the pressure is measured with a special pressure gauge. If there is no pressure in the fuel line, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the fuel pump, as well as the correct operation of the electrical circuit.

Clogged fuel injector nozzles can be checked by removing the fuel rail. A working fuel injector should spray fuel into a vapor state. A faulty or clogged nozzle does not spray, gasoline may not flow at all, or may flow in a stream.

Failure of all injection nozzles to pass through may also indicate improper operation of the vehicle's Electronic Control Unit.

Cooling system

The engine cooling system is liquid, closed type with forced circulation of coolant and an expansion tank.

The engine cooling system uses special fluids based on a mixture of water and ethylene glycol. They have a low freezing point and a high boiling point. In addition, thanks to a complex of added additives, the coolant prevents corrosion of the channel walls, does not foam, and extends the service life of the coolant pump seal.

The volume of liquid in the engine cooling system is 7.8 liters.

Fluid circulation in the system is ensured by a centrifugal pump installed in the cylinder block. The pump is driven by a timing belt.

The liquid in the cooling system, depending on the engine temperature, can circulate in both a small and large circle. The thermostat controls the direction of fluid flow in the engine cooling system. It contains two valves - the main and additional (bypass). The main valve controls the circulation of liquid in a large circle, and the bypass valve controls the circulation in a small circle. The valves are interconnected - when one opens, the second closes and vice versa.

When the engine is cold, the thermostat bypass valve is open and fluid circulates in a small circle through the cylinder block, cylinder head, bypass valve and coolant pump, as well as through the throttle body and heater core. The heater radiator is built into the engine cooling system and is designed to heat the passenger compartment by circulating hot coolant through it.

Cooling system: 1 — heater radiator; 2 — coolant drain hose from the heater radiator; 3 — coolant supply hose to the heater radiator; 4 — coolant pump supply pipe hose; 5 — expansion tank hose; 6 — steam removal hose of the heater radiator; 7 - expansion tank; 8 — liquid level sensor in the expansion tank; 9 — thermostat; 10 — hose for draining fluid from the engine radiator; 11 — hose for supplying fluid to the throttle assembly; 12 — steam exhaust hose of the engine radiator; 13 — hose for supplying fluid to the engine radiator; 14 — engine radiator; 15 — radiator drain plug; 16 — electric engine radiator fan; 17 — coolant pump; 18 — supply pipe of the coolant pump; 19 — coolant drain hose from the throttle body

At a temperature of 85+2 °C, the main thermostat valve begins to open, and the bypass valve begins to close, and for some time the liquid circulates in a small and large circle at the same time. At a temperature of 102 °C, the main thermostat valve is fully open, the bypass valve is closed, and the main flow of liquid passes through the engine radiator, where it is cooled by the oncoming air flow. At the same time, the liquid continues to circulate through the throttle assembly and the heater radiator. When the air flow intensity is insufficient, an electric fan is turned on to cool the radiator. It is installed behind the engine radiator and turns on automatically based on a signal from the electronic engine control unit.

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the liquid, an expansion tank is installed in the cooling system. The tank plug contains inlet and outlet valves, which allows you to maintain optimal pressure in the system when the liquid is heated, and also compensate for the vacuum when it cools.

Possible starter malfunctions: causes and symptoms

Main components of the mechanism

So, first, let's look at the faults that cause the starter to not turn on a VAZ 2112.

If the engine does not start, it does not mean that the problem lies in this particular device, so first you need to make sure that the problem does not lie in a discharged battery:

If, when trying to start the 2111 with the key, the crankshaft turns once or frequent clicks of the device are heard, this is indicative of a low battery. Also, the reason may be poor contact of the terminals with the battery or disconnection or poor contact of the mechanism ground.
If, when starting the engine with the key, you heard only one click, and, accordingly, the engine does not start, most likely the problem lies in burnt power contacts. In particular, we are talking about the retractor relay mechanism. Due to burning, these contacts will not be able to conduct voltage through them. It also happens that when starting the engine with the key on a VAZ 2112, the starter does not turn, but the contacts are intact; if this is the case, then the reason should be sought in the non-working electric motor of the mechanism or its drive.
The appearance of uncharacteristic noise during operation of the device may be due to wear of the bushings of the bearing devices. In addition, the reason may lie in the wear of the journals on the armature shaft.
It is necessary to check the quality of fastening of the device. It is quite possible that problems in its performance are due to loosening of the screws. It must be taken into account that vibrations can negatively affect the functionality of the mechanism.
The reason may also be damage to the drive teeth (the author of the video is the Lexin channel).

VAZ-2112 16 valves will not start when hot: reasons

Well, the heat started and some owners of the 110 family had problems starting a warm engine.

My symptoms were the following: 1) In cold weather, even in winter at minus 30, it started without problems, with half a turn, so to speak 2) When noticeable warming began, problems began with starting an already warmed-up engine of 70-100 degrees, this happened every other time (about once a week ).3) You turn the key in the ignition and nothing happens, you can only hear the fuel pump running, while the dashboard dims a little.4) In this case, you can start the engine using two methods, using a screwdriver to close the retractor and using the pushrod, if after such a start the car turn it off, it will start from the key without any problems.

5) The battery is charged, the voltage on board shows normal.

Most likely you have a jamb somewhere in the wiring, if the reason was not found, then you can install an additional starter relay, on cars before 2004 or 2003, these relays are not provided, but after these years they began to install it from the factory, it serves for unloading the ignition switch.

What you need:1) 4-pin relay with an iron lug 30-40a - 40 rubles.2) Female for the relay - 10 rubles.3) “Female standard” connector 5 pieces - 3 rubles per piece4) “Male standard” connector 1 piece - 3 rubles5 )Ring tip (6-8mm) 2 pieces - 5 rubles per piece 6)Wires 4 pieces

We remove the air filter (for easy accessibility), ground from the body, disconnect the male and female contacts on the retractor. Relay connection diagram: 1) connect the 30 relay contact to 12V from the retractor (the thickest wire) by screwing on another nut. (There is also a slightly different connection diagram where contact 30 from the relay is connected directly to the + battery) 2) 87 contact of the relay is connected to the free “male” contact on the retractor 3) 86 contact of the relay is connected to the free wire “female”

4) 85 contact of the relay is connected to body ground

Examples of relay placement. There is a bolt under the battery holder where you can attach the relay.

In general, having spent 80 rubles, I have no more problems with hot starting. Issue price: 80 ₽

Car: VAZ 2112. Asked by: Sergey Kasatkin. The essence of the question: A hot VAZ-2112 will not start, what should I do?

Good afternoon, I have a VAZ-2112, a 16-valve injection engine with a volume of 1.6 liters. The problem is that when the engine is cold, the car starts well. As soon as it warms up well, starting problems begin. Please tell me what could be the problem and what needs to be checked?

Possible malfunctions of the fuel supply system of the VAZ 2110

One of the major malfunctions of the fuel supply system are:

failure of the fuel pump.

clogged fuel line

clogged distributed injection nozzles

Failure of all injection nozzles to pass through may also indicate improper operation of the vehicle's Electronic Control Unit.

Possible malfunctions in the timing belt

the timing belt slips through the pulley teeth by 1-2 positions. Because of this, the position of the valve timing changes and the engine may not start at all.
Slipping of the camshaft pulley or damage to the shaft.
Malfunction or incorrect operation of the crankshaft position sensor.

In a situation where it is not possible, from a technical point of view, to identify a malfunction using general diagnostics, it is necessary to carry out general computer diagnostics of the engine with connection to the ECU

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

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Why is Datsun On Do better?

Good night all. I’ve been reading the forum for about three years now, but somehow I never bothered to register. By the way, thanks to everyone, I found really useful advice a couple of times. Trouble has come - now I’ve registered =(

So to the description of the problem. I have a ten, 8th grade 2003. I arrived today and parked the car for about an hour to wipe off the dust in the interior. Wipe. Start - but it won’t start. The engine is turning. I started researching the problem. Alarm system, immobilizer (activated) - they seem to work as usual. The fuel pump - I hear it pumping, and there is definitely power to it, since after searching for the previous problem, the LED remained soldered into its circuit. He burns. I checked - the spark plug sparks when I turn the starter. There seems to be pressure in the fuel rail (unscrew the cap, press on the nipple - a stream flows), which means the fuel pump should be working. I unscrewed the spark plugs - they were dry and did not smell of gasoline. It turns out that it is not served? What could it be? Are there any sensors there? Or maybe some kind of contact or fuse? The worst thing I suspect is an alarm system or an immobilizer.

In general - good help. Maybe someone can tell me something. Thank you.

Thanks everyone for the advice. Clarifications: There is a spark - I removed the cap from the spark plug, turned the starter and watched as a spark breaks through to the head of the engine. Ignition switch - I don’t know how to check this, but I think if the engine turns over, then the lock is working =) My belt broke like that, so I know what the symptoms are. Replaced 15,000 thousand ago. I think the belt should be fine. Markers if they are lost. Can you tell me how to check this? I unscrewed the spark plugs and they were dry. If you press the gas and turn the ignition, as far as I know, this is the mode for purging (drying) the spark plugs. I tried it. There is pressure in the fuel rail.

And the injectors are squealing.

How can I check this? I thought about this yesterday, but I don’t know how to look at it.

Those. It turns out that in the evening after work you will need to check the following things: - whether the marks on the belt match (how to check?) - whether the injectors are peeing (how to check?) - climb in the console, move the relays, you should probably also look at the fuses

What else should I check? Yes, here’s another question: at what stage are the immobilizer and alarm systems included in the circuit? Well, I mean, could it be any of them?

Here's something I picked up from the murzilka, I'll check it: - The control impulse from the crankshaft position sensor arrives at the wrong time due to delamination of the crankshaft damper (the gear has moved relative to the pulley)

Replace the damper (you can install a cast iron pulley) - The engine control unit, its circuits or the crankshaft position sensor (less often, the coolant temperature sensor) is faulty

Check whether 12 V voltage is supplied to the control unit, the crankshaft position sensor circuit, that the sensor itself is not damaged and the gap between it and the crankshaft damper ring gear (1±0.2 mm). Sensor resistance is 500–700 Ohms. If there is a break in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuit, the cooling system fan runs continuously

Replace faulty unit, sensors, wires -

The idle speed controller or its electrical circuit is faulty

When starting the engine, lightly press the gas pedal, slightly opening the throttle. If the engine starts but stalls when the pedal is released, the regulator is faulty

Replace the faulty regulator - The injection system fuse or fusible link has blown

Check the fuse link - a piece of black wire, the non-switchable power fuse and the main relay fuse

Check the circuits and instruments of the injection system, eliminate the cause of the burnout, replace the fuse - The injectors or their circuits are faulty

Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open or short circuit). The control unit is diagnosed at a service station

Replace the faulty control unit, injectors, ensure contact in the electrical circuits - The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the system

Check the fuel pump outlet pressure (at least 3.5 bar (3.5 kg/cm2), make sure the fuel inlet strainer is clean

Clean the fuel inlet mesh. Fuel pump that does not provide the required pressure in the system - replace -

Occurrence of a problem

Engine problems in the VAZ-2110 arise for various reasons. The result of a malfunction of one of the nodes associated with the engine will be unstable operation of the entire node

Not everyone can independently identify the reason why the car stalled, so it’s worth paying attention to some little things. One of the main problems with cars with high mileage is contamination of the system with fuel combustion products, so a simple lack of cleaning can eventually cause the engine to stall

If the pipes are clogged, fuel enters the combustion chamber in small quantities; it is not enough for normal engine operation. The solution to this problem is simple - check all the fuel channels, clean them, replace the fuel nozzles. For carburetor types of VAZ, this will not only solve the problem, but also improve engine performance.

The second reason why the engine may stall is low-quality gasoline. An incorrectly selected brand of gasoline can have a very detrimental effect on many vehicle systems, including the engine. You need to replace the fuel, this will help solve the problem.

These solutions to the problem are simple and require minimal skill and expense from the driver.

If wet

If wet candles are found, they must be removed and dried.

Next, they should be installed in their place. If after such work the car still does not start, and the spark plugs are filled with gasoline, the next step is to check the timing marks. To do this, remove the plastic casing and check the marks on the camshaft and its gear; Don’t forget about the mark on the crankshaft gear. If they are in the wrong position, there is a violation of the gas distribution. It is also worth checking the key, in close combination with which the DPKV works. The second reason why spark plugs may flood is clogged nozzles. In this case, they need to be cleaned.

What you need to know about diagnostics

A good diagnosis should proceed as follows:

• Errors are read first.

• The signals coming from the sensors on the injector are checked.

• The pressure created by the fuel is measured.

At the very end, you should receive the correct answer about what happened and what you have to do with the car in the future.

If a car enthusiast has an engineering streak, he can try to find the reason why the VAZ-2112 does not start. In this case, you can fix the problem yourself, saving on service costs.

Why doesn't the engine start yet?

Another common cause is a clogged fuel filter. This usually happens due to the use of fuel that is not of very high quality. However, most often the owners themselves are to blame for this, as they do not consider it necessary to regularly replace them.

It will be useful: Do-it-yourself replacement of the Chevrolet Niva thermostat: diagram, video

Poor throughput of this element provokes a decrease in pressure, which, in turn, prevents fuel from being properly sprayed through the injectors. A characteristic symptom of such a breakdown is the “sneezing” of the power plant.

In addition to the fuel filter, experts also advise changing the air filter.

VAZ fuel pump

Once you are convinced that, despite the serviceability of the battery, it still does not want to, find out how the fuel pump works. Its failure leads to the fact that fuel does not enter the VAZ-2110 injector, therefore, the engine cannot be started. This problem often occurs when the engine is still hot.

Try starting it and listen. If the pump motor is humming, then the problem is not there. On a noisy street they use a different method. Make sure the spark plugs produce a spark. Do this: unscrew one and attach it to the power plant housing, and then activate the ignition.

Problems with the fuel pump

set the device switch to the constant voltage test mode, up to 20 V;
remove the special terminal from the pump;
Using probes, we check the power supply with the ignition on.

If there is power, but gasoline still does not flow, then you just need to replace the part with a new one. The renovation does not make any economic sense.

Checking the starter

The starters installed on the VAZ 2112 are relatively reliable. But if, after all the checks carried out above, it was not possible to identify the reason for the inability to start, then you should remove it for diagnostics.

It will be extremely difficult to disassemble and check all its components on your own. First of all, you need to check: is voltage coming to the starter power contacts? Often it is a cable break, a crease, or contact oxidation that leads to the impossibility of starting the motor.

It should be noted that if there are problems with starting, it is difficult to determine a hot fault. If you cannot cope with the repair yourself, then you should contact a qualified service center.

Source

Ignition coil

If there is electricity in the circuit, it is the coil that almost completely fails. There is no point in repairing it, so the unit must be replaced with a working one.

As practice shows, problems with the winding often arise due to poor contact of the electrical wiring connected to it. Often the reason for this is banal pollution.

When the above manipulations do not bring results, it is necessary to check the functionality of the switch or distributor in the engine (depending on the type of power plant - injector or carburetor).

To do this, remove the protective cover and:

check the presence of current with a tester;
clean contacts from dirt;
make sure they are held securely.

All other wiring problems must be repaired only at a service center. The thing is that only a few car enthusiasts are able to carry out diagnostics on their own. In addition, this requires special professional equipment.

Possible starter malfunctions: causes and symptoms

So, first, let's look at the faults that cause the starter to not turn on a VAZ 2112.

If the engine does not start, it does not mean that the problem lies in this particular device, so first you need to make sure that the problem does not lie in a discharged battery:

If, when trying to start the VAZ 2111 starter with the key, the crankshaft turns once or frequent clicks of the device are heard, this is indicative of a low battery. Also, the reason may be poor contact of the terminals with the battery or disconnection or poor contact of the mechanism ground.
If, when starting the engine with the key, you heard only one click, but the starter does not turn, and therefore the engine does not start, most likely the problem lies in burnt power contacts. In particular, we are talking about the retractor relay mechanism. Due to burning, these contacts will not be able to conduct voltage through them. It also happens that when starting the engine with the key on a VAZ 2112, the starter does not turn, but the contacts are intact; if this is the case, then the reason should be sought in the non-working electric motor of the mechanism or its drive.
The appearance of uncharacteristic noise during operation of the device may be due to wear of the bushings of the bearing devices. In addition, the reason may lie in the wear of the journals on the armature shaft.
It is necessary to check the quality of fastening of the device. It is quite possible that problems in its performance are due to loosening of the screws. It must be taken into account that vibrations can negatively affect the functionality of the mechanism.
The reason may also be damage to the drive teeth (the author of the video is the Lexin channel).

Failure of spark plugs

The first thing you should think about after checking the presence of power and the ignition switch is the integrity of the spark plugs. Because even if there is a spark, they may not work correctly. Checking them is quite simple:

the spark plug is unscrewed from its socket using a special key;
one of the candlesticks is put on it;
Next you need to “turn” the starter.

The spark between the central and side electrodes must be blue. If it is red or completely absent, the spark plug must be replaced. This part is a consumable item. According to the regulations, regardless of the recommendations of the manufacturer of the spark plugs themselves, they must be replaced every 10 thousand km.

Options for developing situations

• Spark is present on the spark plugs of all cylinders. This is already a good sign. Let's proceed to the next point.

• There is a spark on the first and fourth cylinders, but no spark on the others. Conclusion: ignition coil 2112 does not work.

• There is a spark on the second and third cylinders, but no spark on the others. The conclusion is the same as in the previous paragraph. The ignition module should also be replaced. When after replacing this element the problem does not go away, the culprit is a malfunction of the output keys to the ignition module from the electronic control unit. Repairing the unit will solve this problem.

• When there are no sparks at all, the most likely reason may be a breakdown of the crankshaft position sensor, from which the commands for its formation come.