The car jerks when driving: causes and ways to eliminate them

In most cases, car jerking when driving is a sign of problems in the engine power supply system, ignition or transmission . Before continuing to operate in such a situation, it is better to find out why the car begins to twitch while driving. Some faults that cause these symptoms may pose a safety hazard or cause more serious damage .

In this article we will tell you what to do if the car jerks while driving, how to find the culprit of the problem and fix the problem.

When does this happen

Almost every car enthusiast who has logged more than tens of thousands of kilometers has encountered such a problem as uneven driving of the car, or, in popular parlance, the car simply jerks in some operating modes.

The car jerking can be as follows:

• the beginning of the movement;
• at low speeds;
• with increasing speed;
• at high speeds;
• in all modes at once.

Moreover, it is worth noting that such a malfunction occurs not only on an old car; a new car is also capable of twitching.

It is impossible to say that the cause of uneven running is only a certain part of the car and that it is unique to a specific brand of car.

Based on reviews from car owners, we can conclude that this problem occurs with absolutely any vehicle - an old VAZ “Seven” or a new “Japanese”.

The appearance of uneven movement of the car not only irritates the driver, but can also cause an accident, because at the right moment the car, instead of accelerating, will begin to twitch.

Let's try to figure out in detail what can cause the car to jerk while moving. But to do this, you first need to understand how everything happens.

Idle speed sensor

If the car jerks while driving, first you need to check the idle speed sensor. A malfunction of the idle speed sensor is very difficult to identify, since most often it does not cause a Check Engine error, which signals the presence of problems and shows which unit is not working.

There are three main faults

• Sensor contamination. The sensor is contaminated with oils, dust, oils, crankcase gases
• Mechanical damage associated with the rod, threaded connection, rivets flying out, etc.
• Failure of the electrical part. These malfunctions include winding combustion or a short circuit inside the sensor.

Quick diagnostics

So, the car is started, the speed is turned on, the clutch is slowly released, and the engine speed gradually increases.

But instead of smoothly starting from a stop and starting to pick up speed, the car begins to jerk - the speed fluctuates, the speed either increases or drops sharply, despite pressing the accelerator pedal.

This can continue until either the twitching goes away on its own and the car begins to confidently gain momentum, or until the engine stalls.

It happens that the car starts moving quite safely, but as soon as the revolutions increase to 2000-2500, uneven movement begins, accompanied by sharp changes in engine operation, as well as in the speed of movement.

The same situation can be observed when reaching medium modes, that is, the engine reaches a certain speed level, after which twitching begins.

It happens that the car starts to jerk every time you change gears.

It is not necessary that uneven running occurs only under certain conditions.

It also happens that the car jerks spontaneously, without any frequency or conditions. That is, the car can jerk just once, in any mode, and then move normally for quite a long time.

Or the car was working normally, but suddenly began to twitch sharply, and this trouble no longer goes away.

In general, there are a lot of options, but one fact remains - the car has an uneven ride, and it is advisable to eliminate it as quickly as possible before the problem gets worse.

The first thing to do is determine under what conditions the twitching occurs. The easiest way to do this is while moving.

You should drive onto a flat section of the road where there is no traffic and start testing.

At first, just get moving, then gradually increase the speed, remembering the behavior of the car and watching the dashboard.

And this must be done until the engine reaches high speeds.

Afterwards, you will need to run the test again to make sure that the conditions for the appearance of twitching are determined correctly. And only after that you can start looking for the reason.

A summary table of the reasons why the car jerks for different types of motors for quick diagnosis.

* applies only to diesel engines that have a Common Rail injection system.

** applies to vehicles equipped with direct injection engines and 6th generation LPG with liquid gas injection installed on them.

*** for cars with an injection system equipped with an electronic e-gas pedal.

**** for carburetors of cars with an electronic ignition system.

Poor quality fuel

No matter how trivial it may sound, in most cases the common cause of failures during acceleration is bad gasoline. Even if water gets into the fuel, it causes malfunctions of the unit. It is clear that an engine running on such fuel will malfunction. What can you do if your tank is full of such fuel? To avoid damage to the injectors and pump, it is advisable to drain all contents. If you don’t want to do this, there is only one way out - wait for the production of low-quality gasoline.

Car jerking at low speeds

This problem often occurs when driving at low speeds at low engine speeds.

Checking the engine power system

Often the reason for the car twitching at low speeds is the power system, or rather, a malfunction in its operation.

When starting to move, the required amount of fuel simply does not enter the cylinders; the car is unable to produce the required power to evenly operate the transmission.

At the same time, transmission resistance leads to uneven running.

When jerking occurs at low speeds, first of all you should check all the elements related to the power system, and it makes no difference what kind of system it is - carburetor, injection or diesel.

It is recommended to immediately check the condition of all pipes. Depressurization of the system almost always leads to air being sucked in, which leads to fuel starvation of the engine.

And only after checking the condition of the pipelines can you proceed to the remaining elements of the system, which will be discussed below.

Ignition system

Also, the cause of jerking at low speeds can be the ignition system, especially for injection cars, where the entire operation of the system is controlled and regulated by an electronic unit.

A malfunction of one of the sensors can easily cause the machine to twitch.

The car is shaking, what should I do?

At the first stage, the machine is diagnosed. Let's say that you have a Niva with a carburetor engine in your garage. Your car already shows signs of “illness” at the first stage of movement. Or the car started moving without any hassle, but when a certain number of revolutions was reached, the engine malfunctioned. All this will not give answers, but only creates questions, because anything can break. In any case, if unstable operation of the car’s power unit is noticed while pressing the accelerator pedal, the first thing you should do is:

• Check air and fuel filters. The supply of air and fuel to form a combustible mixture will be difficult if these elements are heavily contaminated.
• Check the fuel pump. Its incorrect operation leads to unstable fuel supply.
• Check fuel pressure. The supply of the fuel-air mixture under insufficient pressure often leads to jerking of the car. The pressure when the engine is running should not exceed 3 kgf/cm2.

Most of the reasons lie in the car's fuel system.

At high speeds

But the jerking of the car at high speeds is more related to the ignition system.

In a normally operating engine, the ignition system automatically adjusts to certain conditions by changing the ignition timing.

That is, when necessary, the ignition becomes either a little early or late.

A malfunction in the automatic ignition will cause twitching.

Do not forget that the cause of uneven movement will be not only a malfunction of the system, but also the failure of one of its elements.

And these are only the reasons that can arise with the engine, without affecting the transmission.

You need to immediately narrow the search for identifying the reasons for the car twitching to two engine systems - fuel and ignition, but you should not discount the transmission.

Eliminate jerking when the car is moving steadily

If a Chevrolet Niva or Niva 21214 exhibits twitching during stable movement, this most often happens due to problems with the ignition system. You can often hear car owners complaining that they just installed new spark plugs, but the engine has already failed. Detonation can occur even with new spark plugs due to incompatibility with the engine. If the spark plug fails, then the fuel will not burn completely, and breakdowns will begin in the operation of the power unit.

Checking the spark plugs is quite easy. The first thing you need to do is:

1. Check the level of gaps on the unscrewed spark plugs. Check for any irregularities in the sparking process.
2. A working spark plug produces a dark blue spark.
3. If there is black carbon on the spark plug, then the problem may lie in a faulty ignition or faulty mixture formation.

If checking the spark plugs does not bring any results, you should check all wiring for oxidation and breakdowns. Don't forget about the coil and toggle switch. All elements of the ignition system, as in the case of a problem in the power system, are thoroughly inspected and checked for correct operation.

Is it due to the fuel filter?

So, it has been determined that the car jerks only under certain conditions. The fuel system pipes are all normal, but it is believed that the cause lies in the fuel system.

This means that the filters need to be checked next. Often it is because of them that this malfunction appears.

The task of any filter element in the fuel system is to clean the fuel from impurities, but at the same time, these impurities do not disappear anywhere, they remain in the filter itself.

Over time, it becomes so clogged with impurities and dirt that its throughput drops, and greatly.

As a result, the fuel pump pumps as expected, but the fuel does not have time to pass through the filter elements and the engine begins to “starve”, accompanied by the car jerking. There is only one way out here - .

Carburetor cars

If you take into account a carburetor car, then the number of filters it has is 2-3 pieces, but one of them, the usual mesh on the fuel receiver, can be practically discounted.

This mesh is aimed only at catching large particles, so it is practically incapable of becoming clogged to such an extent that it stops the flow of fuel in the required quantity.

But the second filter, usually located in the pipelines leading to the fuel pump, is worth checking.

This filter is designed to catch smaller particles and is not difficult to clog.

The third filter is not available on all carbureted vehicles and is usually located at the fuel inlet to the carburetor. It is also a regular mesh, but only fine.

This filter itself is small, so it often gets clogged.

Older machines had another filter installed - a coarse filter, also known as a sediment filter.

The design of this filter is such that it is not capable of becoming clogged to such an extent that it will not allow fuel to pass through. But this filter will subsequently cause rapid clogging of the fine filter.

If this filter accumulates a large amount of debris and dirt, then eventually it will not begin to clean the fuel from impurities, but, on the contrary, will begin to add them.

Injection car filters

Most modern injection cars are also equipped with three filters.

• The first of them is a mesh for catching large particles installed in the neck of the tank. This mesh is clearly not the cause of the twitching.
• The second filter is located on the fuel pump installed in the tank. This filter is also often a mesh, only with smaller cells; its task is to prevent large debris from entering the fuel pump. It is also unlikely that it can cause a lack of fuel.

But the third filter, a fine filter, is located behind the fuel pump and is quite capable of becoming clogged to such an extent that the pump cannot push the required amount of fuel through it.

On more modern cars, there may be additional filters, which can also cause the car to twitch.

Eliminate jerking when accelerating a car

If the Niva 21214 begins to twitch when accelerating, then in this case it is necessary to carefully check the engine power system. The driver presses the speed pedal while driving, but the vehicle does not accelerate. By pressing the accelerator pedal, the driver provokes an increase in the amount of fuel mixture supplied to the cylinders. If this does not happen, breakdowns occur in a uniform manner.

We check all filters: fuel, air. A carburetor engine has 2-3 filters. We will not take into account the mesh in the neck, since it can only prevent the penetration of large particles. You should carefully check the filter that goes to the fuel pump. Often it becomes clogged with impurities, which ultimately prevents the free flow of fuel, causing the engine to starve.

Other elements of the fuel system

Now on to other elements of the fuel system.

Fuel pump.

The next culprit for uneven running may be the fuel pump.

In carburetor cars.

A mechanically driven diaphragm fuel pump is often used here.

So, even a small rupture of the membrane will cause the pump’s performance to drop sharply.

The pump valves may also be to blame. They can easily break the sealing of the device’s chambers, which leads to a drop in fuel supply.

Injection car.

The fuel pump can also cause jerking. On such cars, since the pump is located in the tank, it is electrically driven.

A decrease in device performance leads to the problem described in this article. Here you need to consider a specific case separately.

Now directly about the carburetor.

Because of this, uneven running of the car is also possible. Often such a malfunction occurs due to severe clogging. Debris and dirt can block channels, clog jets, etc.

Sometimes the reason lies in the accelerator pump. A diaphragm accelerator pump is installed on carburetors, the task of which is to increase the fuel supply when the gas pedal is sharply pressed.

But if the membrane is torn, then the accelerator pump will not be able to increase the supply of gasoline, and hence fuel starvation.

Injectors.

For injectors, the fuel injectors are checked next. Violation of their performance leads to jerking of the car.

Injectors need to be cleaned periodically, in principle, like everything else.

Also, in an injection car, the functionality of all sensors involved in the operation of the power system is checked, and then the electronic control unit is checked.

Reasons why a car jerks when accelerating

Ignition system malfunctions

So, the car jerks when accelerating. What happens when the driver presses the gas pedal? Engine speed is relatively low, and intake resistance affects cylinder filling. When the throttle is opened sharply, the filling ratio (the ratio of the volume of air actually entering the cylinder to its geometric volume) approaches 100%, and the pressure at the end of the compression stroke reaches a maximum.

At this moment, the conditions for a spark to occur in the spark plugs worsen: the higher the pressure, the more difficult it is to break through the spark gap. At the same time, problems with the ignition system come to light: the spark begins to “run away” through carbon deposits on the electrodes, through broken tips, and so on. Breakdowns in the ignition coils, unnoticed by the uniformity of idle speed, immediately reveal themselves. Therefore, it is worth starting diagnostics with the ignition system.

We inspect the spark plugs and their insulators. The deposit should be:

1. On injection engines: white, or white with a red-brown admixture - a consequence of working on “eco-friendly” mixtures.
2. On carburetor engines: in the range of red-brown shades.

The electrodes themselves should not show signs of erosion or melting; chips and cracks on the insulators are unacceptable.

Otherwise, try a new set first. If the car still jerks when you press the gas pedal, we continue checking, otherwise we look for the reason for the failure of the spark plugs (for example, copious dry black soot - obvious problems with over-enrichment of the mixture).

On carburetor engines and injection engines without phased ignition, we next check the high-voltage wires (in garage conditions it is easier to use a new set), the distributor (if any), and the ignition coil. For engines with phased injection and individual ignition coils, problems are often hidden in the IKZ - cracked housings, moisture entering the spark plug wells due to dried out seals.

There are exception engines, where the presence of individual ignition coils does not mean phased operation of the system. These are 16-valve Renault engines without phase sensors: they have the primary windings of coils 1-4 and 2-3 cylinders connected in series, two coils fire at a time, and a malfunction of one will affect the operation of the second.

To make it easier to find the source of problems, use a homemade spark gap by taking an inexpensive spark plug and increasing the gap between the electrodes several times or removing the side electrode. We attach a piece of wire with a crocodile at the end to the spark plug skirt to ensure reliable contact with the ground.

Such a homemade arrester places a high load on the ignition system, comparable to real-life operating conditions, and can accurately indicate problems with the high voltage circuit of the ignition system.

Carburetor problems

In carburetor engines, normal mixture formation at the moment of increasing speed is disrupted due to a sharp drop in vacuum in the diffuser. Therefore, to maintain operability, it is necessary to use a separate system that ensures enrichment of the mixture during gas transfer - an accelerator pump. If the car drives jerkily when accelerating, then the accelerator pump is not functioning properly.

Let's consider its operation using the example of a Solex carburetor from front-wheel drive VAZs.

An eccentric cam is rigidly connected to the throttle axis of the first chamber, pressing the accelerator pump lever. It presses on the rod of the spring-loaded diaphragm. As soon as the driver sharply presses the gas, pressing on the diaphragm rod creates pressure under it. In this case, the ball valve in the channel connecting the cavity of the accelerator pump with the float chamber closes, and the fuel pressure opens the second valve in the channel going to the nozzles. Under pressure, fuel is sprayed into diffusers, enriching the mixture.

As soon as the gas is released, a spring, pushing out the diaphragm, creates a vacuum in the cavity. The valve in the nozzle channel closes, preventing air from being sucked through the nozzles. The vacuum opens the lower valve, allowing the accelerator pump to refill with gasoline.

Therefore, if there is no normal acceleration, you need to check the parts of the accelerator pump - the integrity of the diaphragm, the operation of the valves, and blow out the nozzle. Checking the operation of the pump is simple - after removing the air filter, sharply turn the sector of the throttle cable on the carburetor. If the accelerator pump is working properly, even streams of gasoline should come out of both nozzles.

Let's go through the ignition system

The first thing that is checked in this system is the candles.

There have been cases when a car enthusiast replaced old spark plugs with new, and expensive ones at that, and ended up getting irritated due to the car jerking. But since the candles were new, he did not bother with them, but looked for a different reason.

This problem often occurs due to incompatibility of the spark plugs with the engine.

But their long-term use gives the same result. The spark plugs may fail, there will be gaps in their operation, and as a result, the fuel will not ignite well and may not burn completely.

In general, if the fuel system test fails, the next thing to check is the spark plugs. In this case, the candles themselves can suggest the cause of the malfunction.

At home, you should immediately check the gap on unscrewed spark plugs. Failure to do so will result in disruption of sparking. Then the spark plug is checked for sparking.

In a normally working spark plug, the spark should be powerful, purple in color and there should be no gaps in its appearance.

A faded orange spark, and even with gaps, will signal a malfunction of the spark plug or other element of the system.

Soot on the candle will tell you where the cause is hidden. If there is black carbon deposits on it, then either the ignition on the car is broken, or the mixture formation in the fuel system is disrupted, and this can already cause the car to jerk.

But you should not immediately, having determined that there are gaps and the spark does not correspond to the norm, blame the spark plugs for everything. It is quite possible that a weak spark is a consequence of a faulty connection in the system wiring or failure of one of the ignition elements.

Therefore, the second is to check all the wiring of the system for breaks, oxidation of contacts, and the presence of breakdown. And only after this the remaining elements are checked - the coil, the distributor, the switch.

Malfunctions that happen extremely rarely

The cause of turbocharged engines jerking during acceleration is often a malfunction in the turbine itself. Namely, in the pressure regulation system, this is a solenoid valve or electric actuator. But if the valve is being replaced, then with an electric drive everything is much more complicated. In other words, the turbine needs to be replaced.

If all of the above systems and consumables have been checked, and the car continues to jerk during acceleration, then the reason must be sought in the compression of the engine cylinders.

Uneven compression

In practice, in all engine cylinders there is an acceptable spread (1 kgf/cm2) in compression readings. It is measured with a compression gauge; its operation is similar to that of a pressure gauge. But if in one of the cylinders the compression has dropped significantly, and as a result the engine begins to twitch during acceleration. Under these circumstances, it is first necessary to find out the cause of the damage in the cylinder. Problems can be due to the occurrence of rings, misalignment of valves, cylinder head gaskets, and cylinder heads.

About the transmission

Now a few words about the transmission, since it can also cause jerks when driving.

As you know, cars use manual and automatic transmissions.

As for a manual transmission, the gearbox and everything that follows it cannot cause jerking.

A manual transmission is a fairly simple design, and if it already breaks, it breaks specifically, and not creating jerks.

But the clutch can cause jerking. If it is heavily worn, in particular the driven disk, or “slips,” then the car easily begins to twitch.

But as a rule, jerking and twitching with such malfunctions occurs during gear shifting.

In automatic transmissions, the cause of the jerking is the gearbox itself.

It is very dependent on the quantity and quality of oil, so a lack of oil or its foaming can easily cause uneven running of the car.

You can measure the oil level in the automatic transmission using a dipstick.

Or without.

It all depends on the design of the automatic transmission.

How to measure the oil level in an automatic transmission.

Significant wear of the automatic transmission, as well as clogged oil channels, also causes the car to jerk at all speeds.

Transmission

Sometimes the car jerks at low speeds due to the clutch. This may be due to the fact that the springs on the disk, which are needed for a smoother transmission of torque, have failed.

On some cars, for example the 8th generation Honda Civic, jerking when pressing the clutch is a disease and can be treated by lubricating the fork, which moves the release bearing. As for cars with an automatic transmission, kicks and jerks when starting off indicate that the automatic transmission is on the brink, and will most likely need to be repaired soon.

Jerks on the gas

There are often situations when the car jerks when driving on gas, but everything is fine on gasoline. The cause may be problematic spark plugs or high-voltage wires.

But why then does the malfunction appear only on gas fuel?

The bottom line is that when using gas fuel, the breakdown requirements are higher than in the case of gasoline. It turns out that the spark follows the path of least resistance and, accordingly, not in the place where it is needed.

As a rule, this happens when the gas pedal is sharply depressed, when the mixture is lean for some period and it is during this period that the breakdown energy increases.

To confirm or refute the version, you can remove the spark plug and look at the condition of the white dielectric.

Sometimes the symptoms are visible directly on it, but there are situations when the breakdown occurs internally. In this case, the check is carried out only at the stand.

It happens like this:

1. Breakdown.
2. The spark plug does not “receive” a spark or the latter is very weak (we write in easy-to-understand language).
3. The fuel-air mixture does not ignite and the cylinder is excluded from the engine operation.
4. The power drops cyclically and the car starts to jerk.

After eliminating the malfunction in the ignition system, the jerking when operating on gas should go away.

Some car owners complain that after replacing all the ignition elements, nothing changes. But at the same time, they ignore the requirements of engine manufacturers about the permissible type of installed spark plug.

In some cases, reducing the spark plug gap may help.

There are also situations when gas and gasoline enter the same injector due to an error by the adjusters.

Failures in the engine power system

The main fault causing the jerk is the wrong fuel mixture. Because of this, the car behaves non-standardly:

• twitches when you press the gas pedal and does not gain speed or does so very reluctantly;
• suddenly and spontaneously changes speed.

A lack of gasoline or diesel fuel in the fuel mixture does not allow the engine to develop standard power. Why does the power system fail? There are several reasons: filter, throttle assembly, fuel rail, air ducts. These units become clogged or worn out, lose their tightness or pressure. In all cases, proper diagnostics are required to find and fix the problem.

Vibration and jerking when reversing

There are situations when the car jerks while moving in reverse, and vibrations are also possible.

Here you need to consider which gearbox is installed.

If your car has an automatic transmission, you need to pay attention to the position of the engine protector.

It is possible that this element of the car was installed incorrectly when filling oil or performing other work. In this case, the exhaust pipe is close to the protection.

When you engage reverse, the engine tilts slightly, which causes vibration.

It is also necessary to pay attention that there are no touches along the entire perimeter.

If necessary, thick rubber seals must be installed.

There are also other possible reasons that are relevant for all cars:

1. Nedogazovka. It is necessary to take into account that the reverse speed is higher than the first, therefore, at low speeds (about 800-1200 rpm), twitching may appear, and the car itself does not have enough strength to accelerate. Almost the same principle applies here as with the second speed.
2. Poor contact. When moving backwards, the engine tilts a little. If there is a poor connection in the wiring, the situation gets worse when the reverse gear is engaged.
3. Suspension. Even in ideal condition, this component gives a certain vibration.
4. Severe wear on the differential.
5. Low-quality CV joints or “shifters”.
6. A worn clutch or some kind of defect if we are talking about a new car. More precisely, the basket presses the disc unevenly onto the flywheel.
7. Wedging in the basket.
8. Problems in the gearbox, namely the reverse gear.

Much depends on the car model. To determine a more precise cause, it may be necessary to check each of the presented versions. But it is better to contact experienced service station employees.

Air filter

As we know, a large amount of air is needed to form a fuel-air mixture. The air passes through the car's air filter. A dirty filter is another reason why the car jerks while moving or when starting off.

When the air filter becomes dirty, there is not enough air. The mixture is over-enriched in fuel, which burns incorrectly in the cylinders.

The car begins to behave inappropriately, misfires appear, which in turn are expressed in drops in speed and jerking of the car.

Automatic transmission

The situation when a problem with jerking occurs on an automatic transmission deserves special attention.

In this case, the following reasons are possible.

Control block

ECU malfunction is one of the causes of shocks when switching automatic transmissions.

Depending on the make/model of the car, the electronic unit can be independent or built into the “brains” of the engine.

To solve the problem, the ECU may need to be replaced.

Motor sensor

The cause of jerking when driving a car with an automatic transmission may be a malfunction of one of the control bodies, for example, or the mass air flow (MAF).

In such cases, the engine error may not light up. For example, on Ford Mondeo cars with a 6-speed automatic transmission, the problem may arise due to a breakdown that affects the change in torque.

Solenoids

Failure of these elements in the valve body often leads to jerking of the machine. In this case, the culprit is often the valve responsible for oil pressure.

Most often, it needs to be replaced to solve the problem. This situation is typical for automatic transmissions of the DP series (France).

Automatic transmission wiring harness

Wear or damage to this component causes many problems.

That is why during a major overhaul this unit is replaced first.

Mechatronics board

Some automatic transmissions have a separate unit that controls the solenoids. It is mounted in a tray, and if it breaks, it leads to many problems with the automatic transmission.

A similar component can be found in the Mercedes-Benz 722.9 with a seven-speed automatic transmission or in the six-speed “box” of the GM 6T30 and 6T40.

Hydraulic block

A decrease in oil pressure in the automatic transmission hydraulic system leads to jerking and may occur due to failure of the valve body.

The reason may be normal aging or bending of device elements due to overheating.

Problems with hardware

The worst thing is if the malfunction is caused by mechanical malfunctions of the transmission elements. In this case, disassembly and repair may be required.

For example, in Audi cars with a six-speed automatic transmission, the drum bushings often wear out.

As a result, oil is supplied to the friction pack, and due to lubricant leakage, slipping occurs, and the discs literally “burn”.

Other reasons:

1. Reduced oil level. It is enough to reduce the volume of lubricant by only 500 ml for twitching to appear.
2. Problems with automatic transmission and engine mounts. If there is excessive wear, the engine tilts, which causes jerking.
3. Overheat. The problem may arise when operating vehicles in hot weather when the radiators are dirty and the thermostat is faulty.

This list can be supplemented with a problem with the housing and wear of the band brake rod attachment point.

As a result, an oil leak appears and there is a decrease in pressure in the system, followed by a shock.

Mazda 6 owners faced a similar problem.

Automatic transmission Mazda 6

If difficulties arise in the operation of the automatic transmission, it is important not to delay repairs, but to immediately go to a service station for inspection.

If the cause of the car jerking in motion is mechanical problems, you will have to remove and disassemble the “box”.

But most often it does not come to this, and the issue can be resolved by restoring the electrical part.

A car with an injector drives jerkily at low throttles

If a VAZ 21099 injection-type car jerks while driving, the cause may be several components.
In this case, it does not matter whether the engine has 8 or 16 valves. The first step is always to check the ignition and the supply of fuel to the cylinders. If everything is working normally, it is recommended to perform diagnostics of the injector by purging the injectors, the fuel rail and checking the pressure in it.
It is also necessary to remember about the mass air flow sensor - a small device can significantly upset the balance of the entire structure. If a defective part is discovered, it is replaced with a known good one (new). Additionally, experts recommend checking temperature sensors. The sequence of actions is relevant for the entire generation of VAZs, including models 2107, 2112.

Checking VAZ-2107 carburetor

Now let's take a closer look at how to identify the cause of such a malfunction on different car models.

The first will be the carburetor VAZ-2107; there are plenty of cases when the car suddenly starts to jerk while driving.

As already mentioned, you need to start checking with the fuel system:

• First you need to inspect all pipes of the system for cracks;
• Open the tank. It happens that in the summer the lid fits very tightly to the neck, blocking the access of air to the tank. When moving, the pump works and creates a vacuum in the tank, due to which the same pump is then unable to “pull” fuel. It seems like a small thing, but this also happens;
• Inspect the fuel filter located in the pipes leading to the fuel pump. These filters are transparent and easy to visually evaluate;
• You can also check the fuel pump without removing it. It is necessary to disconnect the pipeline coming from the pump from the carburetor and lower its end into some container. Then manually pump the pump into action and evaluate how it pumps fuel - it should supply it in even portions;

• While the fuel pipe is disconnected from the carburetor, unscrew the fitting on which the fuel line fits and remove the small mesh filter, clean it and reinstall it;
• Next comes the carburetor. It is advisable to remove it from the car, rinse it thoroughly, and inspect the accelerator pump membrane.

If actions with the fuel system did not help, we proceed to checking the ignition system.

• We unscrew the spark plugs, check their functionality, and replace them if necessary;
• We check the system wiring for breakdown. This can be done this way - in the dark or in a closed garage (the main thing is that it is dark), open the hood and start the engine. If there are voltage losses on the wiring, they will be immediately noticeable by the sparks that form. Next, we replace the wiring that “breaks through” and check the wire connections;

• Next, we check the distributor, there should be no signs of critical wear, it should be dry under the cover. Be sure to inspect the centrifugal regulator, and also check the vacuum regulator. You should check whether there is a vacuum in the pipe leading to it.
• Then the Hall sensor, coil and switch will be checked for functionality. You can do this yourself if you have the necessary equipment at hand, but you need to know how to check them. But you can contact an auto electrician.
• It is also important not to forget to check that the ignition is installed correctly.

This is in general and all the features of identifying the cause of uneven running on the VAZ-2107.

Engine jerking while driving

• If, after gaining speed, power dips are observed, then, as a rule, the ignition system is to blame. This problem applies to all types of engines. Solution: turn off the ignition and check whether the block with wires fits tightly to the coil. After this, you need to start the engine again and listen to how it works. If characteristic clicks are heard, it means that a high voltage breakdown has occurred somewhere. Consequently, the block, high-voltage wires (and possibly the coil itself) will have to be changed.
• Another reason for jerking while driving is problems with gasoline. To identify them, remove the spark plugs and inspect them. If they have a white soot on them, similar to talc, it means that due to low-quality gasoline, a lean fuel mixture is entering the combustion chambers. Solution: drain the low-quality gasoline and refuel elsewhere.

A white coating on the spark plugs almost always indicates an unsuitable quality of the fuel mixture.

Checking VAZ-2110

Let's move on to a more modern car - the injection VAZ-2110, which can also twitch when driving.

It’s also worth starting the check with the power system, but it is carried out somewhat differently than on the “Seven”:

• Start with the fuel filter and pump. The filter there is non-separable and diagnostics are done by checking the performance of the pump. It is impossible to carry out the work at home; it is better to contact a service station. There, a special device is connected to the outlet of the fuel filter to measure the outlet pressure. If the pressure does not correspond to the norm, then another measurement is taken, but the device is connected to the fuel pump before entering the filter. This way it is determined whether the insufficient fuel supply is due to the filter or the pump;
• Then the functionality of the injectors is checked. If everything is in order with the specified elements, then the check of the electronic component begins;
• First, all sensors are checked for serviceability and functionality; if they are serviceable, then all that remains is to check the control unit;
• The control unit can often cause jerking if its firmware is broken, that is, it does not operate in the mode it should.

  
  Usually such a malfunction is “cured” by “reflashing”, but if there is internal damage in it, then it is replaced.

As for checking the ignition system, it is in many ways similar to checking the VAZ-2107 system.

It all starts with the spark plugs, then the wiring is checked, then all the components, but taking into account the fact that this system is controlled by an electronic unit that controls the operation of the engine using sensors.

So, when checking the ignition, you will also have to check the performance of the sensors and the unit itself.

What causes the machine to jerk when operating at low speeds?

The main systems in which problems often lie:

• Fuel supply system to the engine;
• Auto ignition system;
• Gearbox, both automatic and manual;
• Distributor;
• Fuel filter system;
• Sparking system;
• Car computer control unit.

If you hear the brakes squeaking when twitching, this may indicate the appearance of several, both interrelated and completely independent problems.

VAZ 2114 injector

Owners of VAZ 2114 cars with an injector often complain about the appearance of car jerking and loss of traction. The first thing you need to do is connect to the diagnostic connector and look for errors.

The most common problems that may occur are:

• P0327 - knock sensor, low voltage;
• P1602 - unstable voltage;
• P2127 - gas pedal position sensor, low voltage;
• P2138 - gas pedal position sensor, signal mismatch.

In this case, you need to look at what error Check appears. Most often this is P2127, so this is what you need to pay attention to.

After connecting, you need to look at the information that the sensors provide when you press the gas.

If after pressing the accelerator the indicators change significantly, this may indicate a violation of the resistive layer.

The following steps may be required to resolve the issue:

1. Take off the gas pedal.
2. Loosen the mounting screws.
3. Remove the cover.
4. Wipe the circuit with an alcohol solution.
5. Reassemble the pedal and put it in place. Don't change your position.
6. Take measurements using a potentiometer.

If the data is static, and after releasing the gas the voltage parameters do not change, this indicates a solution to the problem.

Also look at the knock signal for different cylinders. If any of them has a low parameter, this may indicate a problem with the sensor and the need to replace it.

Lada Kalina, VAZ 21099

When operating the Lada Kalina, jerking may occur when driving. They can occur when starting off, during acceleration, or during normal driving.

In most cases, to identify the cause, you need to diagnose the ECU at a service station, but there are situations when you can solve the problem yourself.

Below we will consider possible solutions for different situations that can be applied to other cars, for example, VAZ 21099 injector.

When starting to move

The reason is the slow response of the engine to pressing the accelerator. A jerk appears at the moment the throttle opens, when the sensor of this unit transmits information to the ECU.

Next, the electronic unit determines the moment of transition from the idle mode to the load and makes a decision to add fuel.

When there is a shortage of pressure in the fuel supply system, jerking occurs.

During acceleration

Here the reason is the same as in the case discussed above. When you press the gas, due to lack of pressure, less fuel is supplied to the engine than necessary.

While driving

Such problems are often caused by breakdowns in the ignition system. To check the version, do the following:

• open the hood;
• turn off the ignition;
• check the quality of the wires;
• start the engine and listen to it for the presence of a crackling sound/breakdown;
• change the spark plugs and inspect their condition, and if problems are identified, make repairs.

The cause of jerking when driving the Lada Kalina may be a breakdown of the sensor that displays information on the throttle valve.

The problem can be identified by uneven operation of the motor and a decrease in its power. The only way out in this case is to replace the faulty element.

Wear of unit parts is a sad reason for twitching

If the car begins to twitch completely imperceptibly under load or at low speeds in a certain gear, the cause may be wear and tear on the power unit. This is one of the most complex and expensive types of breakdowns; sometimes it can only be dealt with by replacing the unit with a new one. Of course, this is the last factor that you will check after all the previously used ones, but you should not forget about this possibility. If you have already checked everything completely, you will have to resort to testing this problem. To check, you will have to perform a number of diagnostic procedures and visit more than one specialist.

The process for checking this problem is as follows:

• computer diagnostics of engine systems and reading all the error codes that the car has produced over the past few months, this will help assess the current condition of the engine in the car;
• further, the services of a good motor mechanic are needed, who, by external signs, can determine the condition of the engine in the car by driving it and making several manipulations at the station;
• the next step is to disassemble the power unit, if, after all, suspicions of an engine malfunction are confirmed, only after disassembly will it be possible to find out the real causes of problems with the engine;
• diagnostics will show exactly what problems happened to the unit, it could just be rings that are easy to change, as well as a crankshaft, to replace which you do not need to disassemble the entire engine;
• if damage affects the piston group, you will have to make a decision on expensive repairs or simply replacing the unit; the cost of this procedure in any case will not be small.

If a diagnostician points out specific problems with the engine without disassembling it, you may doubt his recommendations. Only upon opening can you determine what exactly needs restoration in your car. The problem is that the engine exhibits similar problems in different situations. Therefore, even the most experienced specialist cannot talk about a specific breakdown without studying the internal part. So you should contact only trusted professionals and always check the information received.

We invite you to watch a video about the car jerking:

Opel Astra

A common problem is the appearance of jerking while driving an Opel Astra. In this case, the malfunction most often appears after the engine has warmed up to 50 degrees Celsius.

The first thing to do is to carry out diagnostics and count errors. During the assessment process, it is necessary to look at the injection timing and EGR sensor/valve performance.

After that do the following:

1. Warm up the engine to operating voltage.
2. Check the voltage at the EGR contacts (there are five in total). To solve this problem you need to use needles. There should be about 14 V on the outermost contacts, about 5 V on the second one from the windshield, and on the third one there should be from 0.65 to 2.0 V.

3. Check the wires that go to the EGR.
4. Make sure the valve is intact. Perhaps it has malfunctioned.
5. If the valve and wires are intact, only the ECU remains. It is necessary to open the block and see what problems there are.

Plugs and wires are problem number one

One of the most common causes of unpleasant effects during car operation in the form of vehicle twitching is faulty spark plugs and high-voltage wires. Over time, spark plugs tend to deteriorate spark quality or fail completely. One set can last 100,000 km without problems, while the other will have to be replaced at 10,000 km. The health of the candles must be monitored as efficiently as possible, otherwise there will be a lot of problems and troubles.

The reasons for twitching may be the following:

• one of the spark plugs gives a bad spark, so under certain engine operating conditions the mixture does not have time to ignite and does not burn out, so one of the cylinders does not work correctly;
• the wire is broken, due to which the spark is not formed fully or not at all, the entire charge is lost on the way to the spark plug, which causes a number of troubles in the operation of the car;
• the candle is covered with brick-colored soot - this is a sign of the use of low-quality fuel, which led to the formation of metallized soot, which is conductive;
• due to malfunctions of the spark plugs and wires, the ignition coil began to fail and short out, this leads either to a complete stop of the engine or to operation on 2-3 cylinders;
• the spark plugs are simply old, the wear of the electrodes does not allow them to work normally, there are also various deposits and other unpleasant aspects, you just need to replace these parts.

This effect can occur if the machine has been idle for a long time. In this case, it is better to replace the spark plugs. Replacing the wires is not necessary, but you need to make sure they are working properly. If the electrical equipment is normal, you will have to dig further. Unfortunately, spark plugs and high-voltage wires are not the only possible cause of unpleasant effects. If you have replaced these parts, but still haven’t noticed any improvement in your ride, you will have to deal with the car’s electronics or perform other expensive procedures.

Checking Ford Focus

The last car will be the Ford Focus 3 injector, which is not surprising, but it can also twitch when driving.

Note that the sequence of checking the ignition and power systems on this car has the same algorithm as on the VAZ-2110. But let’s assume that our car is equipped with an automatic transmission, and no problems were found in the engine systems.

As for checking the automatic transmission, you can only check the oil level yourself, but you need to know how to do it correctly.

A more in-depth check can only be done on the service. There, using special stands, they will first check the performance of the engine, and then diagnose the operation of the automatic transmission.

Also read about the reasons why.

Engine temperature sensor

Modern cars are equipped with electronic engine control systems, which include many different sensors. Such sensors include the coolant temperature sensor. Its main purpose is to adjust engine operation depending on temperature.

If the sensor is faulty, the car engine will not operate properly. It will be difficult to start, the revs will drop, and there will be jerking when accelerating or just while driving.

Since the device is electronic, most often there is either a short circuit or a broken contact inside the sensor. In any case, if similar symptoms appear, it is better to replace the sensor.